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Hello. I’m Kimura from the Trend Blog.
This time, I’ll explain what "PFAS" is, a term that is not yet widely recognized in Japan, along with its characteristics and the background behind the shift to PFAS-free textile.
You can view a list of PFAS-free textile from the link below.
What is PFAS?
PFAS is short for Per- and Polyfluoroalkyl Substances, a general term for organic fluorine compounds.
These chemical substances have excellent heat resistance, water resistance, and oil resistance, and have been used in a wide range of everyday goods and industrial products, including fabrics.
Features of PFAS textile
Textile treated with PFAS has the following excellent properties:
・Water repellency: It strongly repels water, helping protect clothing and bags from rain and splashes.
・Oil repellency: It repels not only water but also oil and dirt. It is also resistant to food spills and oil stains.
・Durability: It is resistant to friction and washing, and its effect lasts a long time.
・Chemical resistance: It is also resistant to chemicals and can maintain performance in harsh environments.
Main products that use PFAS textile
It is often used in products such as the following:
▶ Outdoor wear Rain jackets Hiking pants Snowboard wear (→ Strong against natural conditions such as rain, snow, and mud)
▶ Sportswear Running jackets Training wear (→ Resistant to sweat and dirt, and durable through washing)
▶ Interior goods Carpets Upholstery fabric Curtains (→ Helps prevent drink spills and stains)
▶ Daily goods Water-repellent bags and eco bags Water-repellent aprons Waterproof sheets and mattress covers
What are the issues with PFAS?
While convenient, PFAS is known as a "Forever Chemical" because it remains in the environment easily and is difficult to break down.
Because of the risk that these substances accumulate in the bodies of humans and animals, use restrictions and the shift to alternatives are now being promoted worldwide.
⚠️As of January 2025, California and New York in the United States have banned the sale of textile containing PFAS.
Features of PFAS-free textile
This is textile that has water-repellent and stain-resistant functions without using PFAS, while minimizing the impact on the environment and the human body.
Recently, as awareness of sustainability has increased, manufacturers have been actively developing and introducing these materials.
・Environmentally friendly It does not contain PFAS, and uses ingredients that are biodegradable or less likely to accumulate in the body.
・Highly safe It uses raw materials considered to pose a low health risk and complies with regulations in Europe (REACH) and the U.S. (EPA).
・Water repellency is somewhat milder Compared with conventional PFAS textile (especially C8 treatment), water and oil repellency may be somewhat lower, but it delivers sufficient performance depending on the application.
Alternative technologies and materials
・C0 water-repellent finish A treatment method that does not use PFAS at all. Mainly uses plant-derived or silicone-based ingredients. It provides water repellency, but basically no oil repellency.
・Silicone-based finish Uses silicone oil to provide water repellency. Highly safe and has little impact on the human body or the environment. Also characterized by a soft hand feel.
・ Wax/vegetable oil-based treatment Uses natural ingredients such as beeswax and castor oil. It is also used by eco-conscious outdoor brands.
Examples of use (products using PFAS-free materials)
Rainwear from eco outdoor brands Kids’ products (with health and safety in mind)
Water-repellent blousons and bags for sustainable fashion
Environmentally friendly curtains and bedding for hotels and medical facilities
How water-repellency performance is evaluated (general)
Spray test (JIS L 1092)
This is the most commonly used test method, based on Japanese Industrial Standards (JIS). Water is sprayed onto the textile, and the rating is determined by the condition of the droplets remaining on the surface.
▼ Evaluation rating (5 levels)
Grade Water repellency level Reference condition
——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
Grade 5 Very excellent Completely dry; water droplets roll off
Grade 4 Excellent Slight penetration of water, but remains droplet-like
Grade 3 Moderate Water seeps in; partially damp
Grade 2 and below Weak to no effect Clearly wet
*At the new-product stage, "Grade 4 to 5" is considered high performance. If it can maintain "Grade 3 or higher" even after 10 washes, it is often evaluated as durable water repellency (DWR).
Trends for C0 type (PFAS-free)
"C0 type," which does not use PFAS, tends to be as follows compared with conventional PFAS-containing products (C6 or C8):
▶ At new-product stage: Water repellency of Grade 4 to 5
▶ After 5 to 10 washes: Often drops to around Grade 3
In other words, it tends to be "water-repellent, but slightly less durable over the long term."
However, improvements have advanced in recent years, and more high-performance products are now available that can maintain Grade 3 even after 10 washes with C0.
To summarize, it is as follows.
Type Water repellency rating (new) Durability after washing
—————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————
C8 (older PFAS) Grade 5 Maintains Grade 5 for a long time
C6 (current PFAS) Grade 4–5 Maintains around Grade 4
C0 (PFAS-free) Grade 4–5 May drop to around Grade 3
High functionality even without PFAS
In recent years, technology has also advanced, and more products have appeared that, without using PFAS, come close to conventional water-repellent performance.
For example, a process called "durable water repellent (DWR) C0 type" has reached a level that can withstand washing to some extent.
What conditions qualify as "high performance"?
Even without PFAS, if the following performance standards are met, it is considered high performance:
| Item | Reference standard |
|---|---|
| Water repellency | Spray test Grade 4 or higher |
| Durability | Keeps Grade 3 or higher even after 5 to 10 washes |
| Moisture permeability / breathability | 5000 g/m²/24h or more |
| Water pressure resistance | 10,000 mm or more (for outdoor use) |
What does the "C" in "C0," "C6," and "C8" mean?
The "C" in terms such as "C0" (C-zero) refers to the length of the carbon (Carbon) chain in the fluorine compound.
This indicates the number of carbon atoms in the organic fluorine compounds used for water-repellent finishing.
| Notation | Meaning | Relationship to PFAS |
|---|---|---|
| C8 | Long-chain fluorine compound with 8 carbon atoms | Used frequently in the past, but harmful to the human body and environment, so it is regulated (e.g., PFOA) |
| C6 | Medium-chain fluorine compound with 6 carbon atoms | Considered lower risk than C8 and still often used today (but still included in PFAS) |
| C0 | No carbon chain = no fluorine compound used | Completely PFAS-free water-repellent finish. Uses silicone or plant-derived ingredients instead |
PFAS-free textile listed on ApparelX
At ApparelX, we have been receiving more inquiries about PFAS-free textile.
To make it easier to search for "PFAS-free textile," we created and display a collection tag called "PFAS-FREE".
We continually add products to this collection once the manufacturer confirms that they are PFAS-free.
If a manufacturer sells through its PFAS version stock and fully switches to PFAS-free stock, existing textile will also be added to the collection.
*At present, depending on stock status, color, or production lot, some items may partially have shifted to PFAS-free textile, but in such cases they are not yet included in the PFAS-free collection. Thank you for your understanding.
PFAS-free textile are marked with "C0 water-repellent finish" in the product name or specifications.
If you have any questions, or if the textile does not show a "C6" or "C0" indication, please feel free to contact us using the link below the [Add to Cart] button on each product page, and we will check with the manufacturer and get back to you.
*If you are planning to ship to California or New York in the U.S., there may be restrictions on ordering textile containing PFAS, so please check the laws and regulations of the applicable state before purchasing.
You can view a list of PFAS-free textile from the link below.
Summary
What did you think? I hope PFAS now feels a little more familiar.
As environmental and health considerations become increasingly important in the textile industry, each of us is being asked to pay closer attention to material selection. Balancing functionality and environmental responsibility is not easy, but "choosing" is a first step toward changing the future.
The regulations on PFAS and the shift toward alternative materials are also a major turning point for the textile industry. PFAS-free textile that balance environmental responsibility with functionality will likely become an essential option in future product development.
We will continue supporting safer, more reliable manufacturing for apparel brands and delivering trustworthy information and products.
At ApparelX, we carry a wide variety of products in addition to the materials introduced here. Please take a look as well.
