Faille

Definition and Overview

Faille is a woven fabric with fine horizontal ribs on the surface, created by using weft yarn that is thicker than, or denser than, the warp yarn. It was originally known as a silk fabric, but today it is made from a wide range of fibers, including cotton, rayon, and polyester.

Texture and Appearance Characteristics

Its horizontal ribs create visual character, and it is notable for producing more depth and shadow than a smooth textile. It generally has firm body and a slightly stiff hand, and while not as pronounced as satin, it can have an elegant, subdued sheen.

The texture varies greatly depending on thickness, rib size, and raw material. Fabrics made with filament yarn tend to be relatively smooth and more likely to show sheen, while those made with spun yarn tend to have a calmer texture, so swatches are used to check the appearance of the ribs and the drape.

Main Applications

It is suited to items where the firm body is used to show shape, and is used for jackets, skirts, dresses, bottoms, and more. Because the ribs add decorative character, it is suitable for designs that want texture even in solid colors.

The suitable season varies depending on the material and industry weight. Lightweight versions may be used for blouses and dresses, while heavier versions may be used for jackets and autumn-winter items. For formalwear and costume applications, selection is based on sheen, depth of color, and how well the garment will tailor.

• Jackets and suits
• Skirts and dresses
• Formalwear
• Dresses and stage costumes

How to Choose and Handling Precautions

Depending on the application, check the raw material, industry weight, rib size, body, and drape. Choose a softer fabric for designs that should conform to the body, and a firmer fabric for structured silhouettes. Since the ribs and sheen on the surface can look different depending on the color, it is important to confirm them in the actual color.

Shrinkage from washing and changes in texture depend on the fiber composition, dyeing, and finishing. In particular, fabrics containing natural fibers or rayon should be checked in advance for whether they can be washed with water and for their shrinkage rate, and testing and trial washing should be carried out before mass production. When ironing, use a pressing cloth and test the temperature and steam on scrap pieces so as not to crush the ribs or cause fading.

When cutting, align the direction of the ribs across all hardware, and if necessary cut in one direction only. In sewing, thick fabrics can create bulky overlap areas, and the seams may look uneven because of the rib texture. Adjust the needle, thread, and presser pressure with a fabric sample, and decide the seam finishing according to how easily it frays.

Differences from Similar Terms

Grosgrain is similar to faille in that it has horizontal ribs, but it is often sold as ribbon, and the ribs may be more pronounced and stiffer. Faille, on the other hand, is often handled as an apparel fabric, and the fineness of the ribs and the texture can vary widely.

Taffeta is a thin, high-density woven fabric characterized by firmness and a crisp rustling sound. Faille may also have body, but when distinguishing it, the presence or absence of horizontal ribs is a useful clue. Poplin is also a woven fabric with visible horizontal ribs, but its raw material, thickness, sheen, and applications do not necessarily match those of faille.

Frequently Asked Questions