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ApparelX WikiButton glossary

Gross

Definition

Gross is a quantity unit used to count apparel accessories such as buttons, and generally refers to a sales and ordering unit equal to 12 dozen, or 144 pieces.

Contents6 sections
  1. Definition and Overview
  2. Relationship to Button Specifications
  3. Checking Sizes and Order Quantities
  4. Handling and Precautions
  5. Differences from Similar Terms
  6. Frequently Asked Questions

Definition and Overview

Gross is a quantity unit used when counting small accessories such as buttons in groups. Generally, 1 gross equals 144 pieces, a counting method equal to 12 dozens, or 12 sets of 12. It is used to calculate required quantities by product number, color, and size, and to manage order quantities and incoming quantities.

Gross does not refer to the type, material, or shape of the button itself. It is also not a unit that indicates the number of holes, whether it has a shank, or the diameter, so when ordering, the specifications must be specified separately from the quantity.

Relationship to Button Specifications

With gross notation alone, you cannot determine whether a button has two holes, four holes, or a shank structure. Hole buttons are sewn on by passing thread through the holes, and shank buttons are attached by passing thread through the shank on the back. The structure is selected according to the intended use, fabric thickness, and the look you want to achieve.

Material is also separate information from gross. For shell, real buffalo horn, nut, resin, metal, and similar materials, thickness, brittleness, heat resistance, and suitability for washing or dry cleaning differ. It is important not to confuse this with the quantity unit and to clearly state the material name, shape, color, and finish in the specification sheet.

  • For hole buttons, confirm the number and shape of the holes.
  • For shank buttons, confirm the shank height, shank hole diameter, and whether a thread shank is needed.
  • When attaching to heavy fabric, confirm compatibility with the buttonhole and how well it sits on the fabric.

Checking Sizes and Order Quantities

Button size is generally expressed in lignes or millimeters. Lignes are a traditional unit of measurement for buttons and may also be shown together with millimeter notation. Gross is a unit of pieces, so its role is different from size notation.

The required order quantity is calculated by multiplying the number of buttons used per garment by the number of garments to be produced. In addition, allow for inspection samples, defects or loss during sewing, and spare buttons included in the shipment. If the sales unit is gross, convert the required number into 144-piece units and check the remainder.

Handling and Precautions

Button resistance to washing, dry cleaning, and ironing depends on the material and processing. Heat or chemicals may cause resin deformation, cracking of natural materials, or discoloration and coating damage on metal surfaces. It is advisable to carry out preliminary tests on the product state including accessories.

When sewing on buttons, choose thread count and needle size that will not damage the button holes or shank, and attach them with proper thread tension. For hole buttons, tightening the thread too much may lead to cracking, and on thick fabric, insufficient thread shanking may make fastening and unfastening difficult.

Differences from Similar Terms

A dozen is a quantity unit that represents 12 pieces, while gross represents 144 pieces. Lignes are a size unit indicating button diameter, and they are not comparable to gross. On purchase orders, indicating quantity in gross or pieces, and size in lignes or millimeters, helps prevent confusion.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many pieces are in 1 gross?

Generally, 1 gross is 144 pieces. 12 pieces make 1 dozen, and 12 dozens make 1 gross. However, the sales unit and packing quantity may be set separately for each product, so check the unit notation on the product page or quotation when ordering.

Does gross indicate button size?

Gross is a unit for quantity, not for button size. Size should be checked in lignes or millimeters. When ordering, it is necessary to specify the product number, material, color, shape, size, and required quantity separately.

Is it okay to order exactly the required number of buttons?

For production, consider not only the number used per garment but also spare buttons, breakage or loss during sewing, and replacements needed during inspection. Because gross sales units create remainders, determine the order quantity by matching the required number with the sales unit.

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