Hand Screen Printing
Hand screen printing is a type of screen printing in which a craftsman manually works printing paste into textile using a separate screen for each color to create the pattern.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Hand screen printing is a finishing process in which a screen stencil matched to the pattern is placed on the textile, and printing paste is pressed through with a squeegee to add color. For multicolor patterns, the stencil is changed for each color, and the process is finished through drying, steaming, washing, and other steps.
It is not a term for the weave or material of the textile, but a processing method for adding patterns. Depending on the dyes or pigments used and the fibers of the textile, the color development, texture, and properties during washing will differ.
Features and Expression
Because the stencil is manually moved and printed by hand, slight variations may appear in pattern placement and how the dye is applied. This unevenness is used to create a handmade look and depth, but projects that emphasize uniformity require prior confirmation.
Since a stencil is used for each color, patterns with many colors or detailed patterns require more steps. On the other hand, it is used for strongly colored solid areas, patterns that make the stencil-defined outline stand out, and repeated patterns.
- Screen printing is the general term for printing and finishing that uses a screen stencil, and hand screen printing is the method in which the stencil transfer and printing steps are done by hand.
- Inkjet printing is a method that ejects ink directly from data, and its process and expression characteristics differ from hand screen printing, which uses a stencil.
- Pigment printing is a name that focuses on the coloring material used. Pigment may also be used in hand screen printing, but the two are not synonymous.
Main Applications
It is used for items in which the pattern is the main feature, such as shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, and scarves. In addition to cotton, linen, and rayon, it can be applied to various textiles by selecting coloring materials and pretreatments suitable for the material.
For lightweight spring and summer items, it is used for airy all-over patterns and botanical patterns; for year-round and autumn/winter items, it is used for deep-toned geometric patterns and small repeating patterns. However, seasonality is determined not by hand screen printing itself, but by the base fabric thickness, material, and pattern.
Selection and Handling Notes
During planning, check sample rolls and swatches made from the actual textile to confirm color tone, pattern placement, outline, bleed-through to the reverse side, and color differences. In particular, large patterns and repeat patterns can look different depending on the cutting position of the product, so indicate pattern matching instructions clearly in the specification sheet.
Shrinkage from washing is mainly affected by the base fabric material and finishing, so confirm the shrinkage rate on the textile after printing. The possibility of color transfer, fading, and abrasion-induced color loss varies depending on the coloring material and processing conditions, so check washing fastness and rubbing fastness as appropriate for the application.
In sewing, pay attention to surface abrasion, glossing or color tone changes caused by ironing, and sewing misalignment. With dark colors or pigment prints, the surface feel may change due to friction during sewing or strong pressing, so it is a good idea to run process tests on offcuts.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between hand screen printing and screen printing?
Screen printing refers broadly to all processing that applies color using a screen stencil. Hand screen printing is the method among these in which stencil transfer and paste application are done manually. Compared with machine screen printing, it may produce individual variations in appearance.
Can hand screen printed textiles be washed at home?
Whether washing is possible cannot be determined by the processing name hand screen printing alone. It depends on the base fabric fibers, the dyes or pigments used, and any post-processing, so follow the product care label. During planning and production, confirm in advance whether color loss, color transfer, and shrinkage occur with the intended washing method.
