Zipper Tape

Definition and Overview

Zipper tape is the strip-like base fabric attached to both sides of a zipper. It holds the elements aligned in the center, and the tape edges are sewn to the seam allowance side so the opening can be opened and closed. In general, a zipper is made up of the elements, slider, top stops and bottom stop, or separating box and pin.

In some cases, the term “zipper tape” is used to refer to the entire finished zipper, but strictly speaking, tape refers to the base fabric portion to which the elements are attached. For repair use or roll chains, it is also used to mean the continuous element section with tape.

Structure and Parts

The tape is made as a left-right pair, with elements attached continuously along the inner edge. The slider interlocks and separates the left and right elements to open and close the zipper. A top stop is provided at the upper end to prevent the slider from coming off, a bottom stop at the lower end, or a separating box and pin that allow the two sides to be separated.

The tape width, thickness, weaving or knitting method, and the firmness of the element attachment area affect ease of sewing and stability during opening and closing. The tape edge is often hidden by stitching, but in designs without facings and in bags, it may be visible as part of the design.

• Elements: the parts that interlock left and right to close.
• Slider: the part that opens and closes the elements.
• Top stop / bottom stop: parts that limit the slider's travel range.
• Separating box and pin: lower-end parts for separating the left and right sides on an open zipper.

Types and Specifications

Zippers differ in appearance, flexibility, and perceived strength depending on the type of elements, such as coil, molded plastic, or metal. The material and color of the tape itself also vary by product, so do not judge the tape's characteristics from the element type alone; confirm with the specification sheet or the actual item.

Element size is a specification indicating the size of the elements. As the size increases, the zipper becomes more prominent and feels stronger, but on thin or delicate garments, stiffness and weight may stand out. Length, tape color, element color, and slider type should also be specified.

Lower-end specifications include a closed zipper with the two sides joined, an open zipper that separates with a box and pin, and a two-way separator design that opens from both top and bottom. Roll chains can be cut to the required length, but the method for attaching the slider and stops must be confirmed separately.

Main Uses

In apparel, they are used for front openings on jackets and coats, fly fronts on pants, side or back openings on skirts and dresses, pockets, and more. Depending on the application, choose a design that shows from the outside, a design hidden by facings or plackets, or a design that stays as unobtrusive as possible along the seam line.

For bags, pouches, boxes, and similar items, they are used to open and close openings and pockets. For thicker materials or applications subject to load, select them with opening and closing frequency, load from contents, and reinforcement of the sewn section in mind.

Selection and Precautions

When selecting, confirm the opening length of the location to be used, the thickness and stretch of the material, the required opening and closing performance, appearance, and the conditions for washing and processing. The zipper length is generally confirmed by the continuous element length from the top stop to the bottom stop, or from the top stop to the separating box and pin. It may not match the overall length from tape end to tape end.

In sewing, stitching while pulling the tape can cause waviness or poor opening and closing performance. For stretch fabrics, thin fabrics, and fuzzy materials in particular, check for sewing misalignment and snagging through prototypes. If the sewing needle or stitch position hits the elements, it can lead to needle breakage or element damage, so caution is required.

For products that undergo washing, garment dyeing, or garment washing, changes in color, shrinkage, changes in metal parts, and waviness of the tape may occur in both the fabric and the zipper. Before full production, confirm with tests combining the actual fabric, sewing specifications, and accessories.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do zipper tape and zipper mean the same thing?

They are sometimes used in everyday language to mean the same thing, but strictly speaking they are different. A zipper is the entire opening-and-closing component, including the elements, slider, stops, and tape. Zipper tape refers to the left and right strip-shaped parts that support the elements and are sewn onto the product body.

Where is zipper length measured?

In many cases, the length is measured from the top stop to the bottom stop when closed, or from the top stop to the separating box and pin for open designs. Because this may differ from the overall length including extra tape, confirm the dimensions listed for each product and the specifications for the stops or separating parts when ordering.

What should be noted when sewing zipper tape to stretch materials?

Because the fabric and tape stretch differently, pulling only the fabric while sewing can cause waviness or distortion in the opening. Consider whether reinforcement with fusible interlining or stay tape is necessary, and confirm open-and-close performance through prototypes, including presser foot pressure, feeding, and seam allowance specifications.