Astrakhan

Definition and Overview

Astrakhan is a name derived from the appearance of lamb-like curled fur, and refers to fabric with fine swirl-like nap or loops on the surface. It is also used for knit fabrics and pile-like materials as well as woven fabrics.

It is not a material name or a single weave structure name, but mainly a term that describes appearance and surface texture. For that reason, the fiber used, pile length, thickness, and manufacturing method vary by fabric.

Features

The dense, fine curls create a full, shadowed, substantial appearance. When the pile is short and neatly finished, it gives an elegant, polished impression; when the curls or pile are larger, it gives a more decorative impression.

Warmth retention, weight when worn, stiffness, and tendency to shed depend on the type of fiber, base fabric, and method used to secure the pile. Because of the surface texture, the color may look darker or lighter depending on the direction and the way light hits it.

• Raised surface texture created by fine curls or loops
• A shadowed appearance with a substantial, autumn/winter feel
• The appearance changes easily depending on the direction of the nap

Main Applications

It is used for autumn/winter outerwear that makes use of the fabric's texture, such as coats, jackets, vests, and capes. In addition to full-piece use, it is also suitable for partial use on collars, cuffs, pocket openings, and similar areas.

Outside apparel, it is also used for hats, bags, accessories, and cushion covers. When deciding on applications, check not only the desired sense of volume but also resistance to abrasion, ease of handling during sewing, and whether it can be machine washed at home.

Selection and Handling Notes

At the planning stage, check the pile or loop height, curl size, nap direction, and stretch of the base fabric using the actual material. If the nap direction is not aligned when cutting, the color and sheen will look different between parts, so specify the direction and allow extra yardage.

During sewing, remove the pile from the seam allowance while working so that the pile or loops are not caught in the seam. With thick fabrics, it is necessary to reduce bulk where seam allowances overlap and to take measures to prevent shifting caused by feeding.

Shrinkage from washing, flattening of the curls, and disturbance of the nap vary depending on the material and finishing. Handle according to the care instructions, and do not store under strong pressure. Ironing may flatten the nap, so test on an inconspicuous area first before deciding on temperature, use of a pressing cloth, and steam.

Differences from Similar Terms

Pile refers to the overall structure in which fuzz or loops are raised from the ground structure. Astrakhan is often used for materials with fine curled or curly appearances among pile fabrics, so it is a more limited term than pile.

Fake fur is a general term for materials that imitate the appearance of animal fur, including those with long pile. Astrakhan generally has relatively short pile and is characterized by a continuous curly nap. Bouclé refers to the texture created by loop yarns or yarns with slubs, and in some cases its surface formation method or wording may overlap with Astrakhan.

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