Twill

Definition and Overview

Twill is a term that refers to the woven structure known in English as twill weave. It is a structure in which the warp or weft threads float over multiple threads, and because the floating position shifts as weaving progresses, continuous diagonal lines, that is, twill ribs, appear on the surface.

It is not a material name but the name of a woven structure, so it is made from a variety of fibers such as cotton, polyester, wool, and rayon. Depending on thread thickness, density, composition, and post-processing, it ranges widely in appearance from lightweight to heavyweight.

Characteristics

Compared with plain weave, the number of thread intersections is lower, so it is generally a structure that more easily creates softness and suppleness, and makes it easier to achieve thickness. The diagonal twill ribs create shading, giving it a textured appearance even when it has no pattern.

The direction of the twill ribs is either right-upward or left-upward when viewed from the front of the textile. Depending on the weave structure, thread selection, and density, the twill ribs may be less noticeable. The way it responds to friction, its sheen, and its drape also vary greatly depending on the material and design.

• It is a structure that makes it easy to achieve both a firm appearance and relatively supple hand.
• High-density twill may be used for applications that require less sheerness and greater durability.
• Since the twill ribs become a design feature, the direction should be checked as a pattern direction when cutting.

Main Applications

Medium- to heavyweight twill is used for pants, skirts, jackets, coats, workwear, uniforms, and more. Chino cloth, a type of cotton twill, and denim are also representative textiles that make use of twill.

Lightweight twill with good drape is also used for shirts, blouses, dresses, and linings. Applications should not be determined by the weave name alone; it is important to check industry weight, fabric width, blend ratio, stretchability, sheerness, and other factors before selecting.

How to Choose and Handling Precautions

For the intended product use, check the appearance of the twill ribs, thickness, firmness, drape, and required strength with an actual sample. For pants and uniforms, checking abrasion resistance and appearance after washing, and for garments that make use of drape, checking the fall and how well the seams blend in, makes selection easier.

Because twill has diagonal ribs, depending on cutting and sewing conditions, skewing, that is, a phenomenon in which the textile or side seams appear twisted, may occur more easily. It is important to align the grain correctly and to perform pre-cut straightening and sewing tests.

Shrinkage from washing, color fading, and whitening of rubbed areas called fading vary depending on the type of fiber and the dyeing or finishing process. Perform washing tests before mass production, and consider the care label and sewing specifications according to the characteristics of the textile.

Differences from Similar Terms

Twill weave is the Japanese name for the woven structure, and twill is used as its English name. However, in distribution, twill may refer either to twill weave in general or to medium-weight twill textile made from cotton and similar materials, so usage is broad.

Gabardine is generally a high-density twill textile with a high warp density and steeply angled twill ribs. Chino cloth often refers to a durable twill textile made mainly from cotton, and both are included within the framework of the twill structure.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do twill and twill weave mean the same thing?

Basically, they refer to the same woven structure, with twill weave being the Japanese term and twill the English term. However, in textile distribution, twill is also sometimes used as a product name for twill textiles with a specific hand or thickness. Check the composition, industry weight, and weave diagram.

Is twill the same textile as denim?

Denim is generally made with twill weave, so in terms of structure it can be considered a type of twill. However, denim has its own appearance and properties derived from the color arrangement of the warp and weft, thread selection, dyeing method, and more, and it is not synonymous with twill in general.

What should you watch out for when cutting twill?

Align the twill ribs with the grain and cut so that the direction does not vary between the left and right hardware. Depending on the textile, skewing or twisting after washing may occur, so in addition to pre-cut straightening, it is reassuring to carry out sample verification including interfacing and sewing specifications.