Blind Stitch
Blind stitch is a finishing method that secures folded fabric edges such as hems and facings to the main fabric with stitches that are kept as inconspicuous as possible on the face side.
Definition and Overview
Blind stitch is a sewing method that secures the seam allowance of a folded hem or facing while catching only a small amount of the outer fabric.
Because the stitches are hard to see from the face side, it is used for hemming products where a neat appearance is required.
It can be done by hand or with a blind stitch machine. Machine blind stitching intermittently catches the outer fabric while feeding the fabric in a special state, making the surface stitches less visible.
Process in Product Making
In general, it is done after cutting the outer fabric, fusing the interfacing, and sewing the various hardware components together, then folding up the hem and shaping it with an iron. For lined products, the sequence of finishing the outer hem and handling the lining is adjusted according to the specifications.
Before blind stitching, confirm the hem fold width, how the seam allowance is finished, and the folded position. After sewing, press the hem and check for waviness, show-through on the face side, and visible stitches to complete the finishing.
Procedure and Practical Points
When sewing, it is important not to catch too much of the outer fabric. If too much is caught, the stitches on the face side become visible; if too little is caught, holding strength may be insufficient. Adjust the needle, thread, and sewing conditions according to the fabric thickness, weave density, color, and whether there is nap.
With stretch fabrics or hems on the bias, shrinkage and puckering can easily occur, so caution is needed. Do not pull the hem more than necessary, and confirm through samples, including the pressing conditions before and after sewing.
- Select thread close to the color of the outer fabric and check how visible the stitches are on the surface.
- For thick fabrics, do not catch too much of the outer fabric; balance this with holding on the seam allowance side.
- For thin fabrics, check for needle holes, puckering, and seam allowance show-through.
- If the outer fabric has nap or texture, check the visibility of the stitches on an actual sample.
Ordering and Quality Notes
When placing an order with a sewing factory, specify not only blind stitching but also the target area, hem fold width, seam allowance finish, thread color, and acceptable range for the appearance on the face side in the specification sheet. Also clearly state whether hand blind stitching or machine blind stitching is required, since this affects appearance and production conditions.
In quality checks, confirm the visibility of the stitches on the face side, hem stretching or waviness, skipped stitches, and twisting of the seam allowance. Whether the hem will sag or the blind stitch thread will break after washing or wear should be evaluated in advance according to the material and intended use.
Differences from Similar Terms
Blind stitch is mainly a finishing method for securing hems and similar areas without making them noticeable. Lockstitch is a general machine stitch in which continuous stitches appear on both sides, and it differs from blind stitch in how the stitches appear and in its purpose.
Overlocking is an overedge stitch used to prevent fraying at the fabric edge. The seam allowance edge may be finished with overlocking before blind stitching, but the two serve different purposes. In addition, kisetake is a tailoring treatment that gives the seam line some ease, and it is distinct from blind stitch, which refers to the sewing method itself.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kinds of products use blind stitch for hems?
It is used for hems on pants, skirts, dresses, jackets, and coats where stitches should not be visible on the face side. However, for designs that emphasize fabric thickness, stretch, or a casual look, a finish that shows stitching may be chosen.
What is the difference between hand blind stitching and machine blind stitching?
Hand blind stitching makes it easier to finely adjust the sewing position and stitch visibility, and it is suitable for delicate materials and complex areas. Machine blind stitching is efficient under consistent conditions, but depending on the fabric thickness and surface texture, it is necessary to check the stitch appearance in advance.
What causes stitches to show on the face side in blind stitching?
The main factors are catching too much of the outer fabric, thread color not matching the outer fabric, and thin fabric. Not only the sewing conditions but also the choice of needle and thread and the pressed state of the hem affect the appearance, so a sewn sample should be checked with the actual fabric before mass production.
