Buttonhole Length
Buttonhole length is a dimension indicating the length of the buttonhole opening made to pass a button through, and it is a specification determined according to the button's outer diameter, thickness, shape, and fabric thickness.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Buttonhole length refers to the length of the buttonhole opening and is used in specifications and trim instructions. It is an important dimension for allowing a button to pass through smoothly and preventing it from moving more than necessary when fastened.
Buttonhole length is not the size of the button itself. It is the sewing specification for the buttonhole, determined based on the button's outer diameter, thickness, and whether it has a shank.
How to Express the Size
Buttonhole length is generally written in millimeters. Button size may also be shown in lignes, so when checking specifications, it is necessary not to confuse the unit for button diameter with the unit for buttonhole length.
Lignes are mainly a unit used to indicate button diameter, while buttonhole length is the actual length of the stitched buttonhole. Do not fix the buttonhole length based on button diameter alone; confirm the fit with the actual item.
- Flat two-hole and four-hole buttons are mainly based on outer diameter and thickness.
- For shank buttons, the thickness and height of the shank, as well as the button thickness, also affect ease of passage.
- For thick fabrics, areas with interfacing, and brushed materials, check whether the added thickness makes the button difficult to pass through.
Relationship with Buttonholes
Buttonhole length is set separately for each type of buttonhole, such as bound buttonholes and eyelet buttonholes. Bound buttonholes are often used on shirts, blouses, and plackets, while eyelet buttonholes are used for thick buttons and areas subject to stress.
The stitching width of the buttonhole, the shape of both ends, and whether it has an eyelet are separate specifications from buttonhole length. Even with the same buttonhole length, the way the button is stitched and the thickness of the fabric will change how easily the button passes through and how it looks.
Points to Note When Setting and Sewing
If the buttonhole length is too short, the button will be difficult to pass through and excessive stress will be placed on the stitches and fabric. If it is too long, the button may come undone more easily during wear, or the alignment of the placket or facing may shift.
Before mass production, confirm opening and closing through a prototype that includes the outer fabric, interfacing, and sewing conditions. Consider individual variations in buttons, the thickness of coatings or decorations, and changes after product washing, and clearly state the buttonhole length and buttonhole type in the specification sheet.
If the fabric shrinks through washing or dry cleaning, the buttonhole length may become relatively smaller and the opening and closing performance may change. During pressing, use a pressing cloth and appropriate finishing methods so as not to flatten the buttonhole.
Differences from Similar Terms
Ligne is a unit that expresses button diameter, while buttonhole length is the length of the buttonhole. The two are related, but do not mean the same dimension.
Buttonhole refers to the entire opening used to pass the button through, as well as its sewing specification, while buttonhole length is the dimension item limited to that length. Bound buttonholes and bound eyelet buttonholes are terms that indicate differences in hole shape and stitching method.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can the buttonhole length be the same as the button diameter?
Buttonhole length should not be set the same as the button diameter; it should be determined by taking into account the button thickness, shank shape, and the combined thickness of the fabric and interfacing. Especially for thick buttons and thick fabrics, it is important to confirm actual opening and closing through prototyping before deciding.
What problems occur if the buttonhole length is too large?
If the buttonhole length is too large, the button may move easily inside the buttonhole during wear, and the alignment of the placket or waist position may shift. It may also make the button easier to come undone during movement, so do not allow excessive clearance based on outer diameter alone.
Does the way buttonhole length is considered differ between bound buttonholes and eyelet buttonholes?
For both, buttonhole length is determined based on how easily the button passes through, but eyelet buttonholes have a round eyelet section, so compatibility with thick buttons and shank buttons should be checked. Consider not only the buttonhole length, but also the hole shape and stitching specification together.
