Covert Cloth
Covert Cloth is a woven fabric mainly made from worsted wool, with finely emphasized twill lines on the surface and a durable, crisp hand, used for coats and jackets.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Covert Cloth is a relatively dense woven fabric that has traditionally been used as coat fabric for outdoor wear. It is generally made mainly from worsted wool, and is characterized by fine twill lines running at a sharp angle on the surface.
The name is used not only for the structure of the textile, but also as a term that includes its use and appearance. Since the look and thickness vary depending on the raw material, thread thickness, density, and finish, specifications should be checked rather than judging performance by the name alone.
Features
The surface has clear diagonal ribs and gives a neat, firm impression. Unlike coat fabrics with a strong fuzzy feel, it has relatively little nap and tends to have a clean, crisp appearance with defined outlines.
Depending on the density and thread use, it generally offers expected abrasion resistance and warmth retention. On the other hand, water resistance and water repellency are not guaranteed by the name Covert Cloth alone, and rain protection requires checking any post-processing and product specifications.
- It has body and drapes well in tailoring.
- Because the twill lines have direction, care is needed with grain direction during cutting and how it looks across hardware.
- Wool-based versions are relatively wrinkle-recovering, but are affected by humidity and friction.
Main Applications
It is used for items that need a structured silhouette, such as coats, half-coats, jackets, suits, and pants. Depending on thickness and industry weight, it is also used for workwear-style outerwear and uniforms.
It is mainly used for autumn and winter items because its warmth retention can be put to good use, but if it is designed as a thin, lightweight fabric, it can also be used for jackets and bottoms in transitional seasons. Whether it has a lining and how it is combined with interfacing affects ease of movement when worn, warmth retention, and tailoring stability.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting it, check the composition, industry weight, fabric width, thickness, stretch, and finish, and if necessary make a sample before sewing. For coats, evaluate wind resistance and warmth retention; for pants, also evaluate abrasion at bending areas and wearing comfort according to the intended use.
Fabrics mainly made from wool may shrink or change texture when washed. Follow the care instructions on the textile or product label for washing and ironing, and before mass production it is important to carry out washing tests and pressing tests after sewing, assuming the finished product.
Before cutting, let the roll rest sufficiently and align the grain. On heavy fabrics, areas where seam allowances overlap tend to become thick, so test how to split the seam allowance, the firmness of the interfacing, and the needle, thread, and feed conditions to reduce fading and puckering.
Differences from Similar Terms
Gabardine is a high-density steep twill weave with smooth, fine ribs. Covert Cloth also has a twill weave, but it is generally handled as a thicker fabric with a solid appearance suited to coats.
Twill is a broad term for twill fabrics in general. By contrast, Covert Cloth is not limited to a single type of twill structure, but is a fabric name that comes with its own ribbed feel, sense of density, and intended use. Chino cloth is a durable twill made mainly from cotton, so the raw material and texture differ.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Covert Cloth and gabardine the same?
No, they are not the same. Both are woven fabrics characterized by twill lines, but gabardine is handled as a high-density, steep twill, while Covert Cloth is generally a fabric name for a thicker material with a clear ribbed feel suited to coats. The actual difference also varies depending on the raw material and finish.
Can Covert Cloth be washed at home?
It depends on the composition and finish. Covert Cloth made mainly from wool may shrink, harden, or lose its shape when washed with water, so check the care label on the product. During planning and production, it is important to check the dimensional change after washing for each fabric used.
What should be noted when sewing Covert Cloth?
When the fabric has body and thickness, areas where seam allowances overlap can become thick, and fading and puckering may occur. Test seam allowance handling, needle and thread selection, feed conditions, and pressing conditions in advance, and cut while matching the direction of the twill lines.
