Cutting

Definition and Position in the Process

Cutting is the process of separating textile into body panels, sleeves, collars, and other parts based on the pattern information finalized after planning, pattern making, and grading. In general, it is carried out after textile inspection, straightening, spreading, and marking, and after cutting the process moves on to sewing.

Cutting accuracy affects product dimensions, how the pattern appears, sewability, and yield. Since misalignment during cutting or mix-ups in parts are difficult to correct in later processes, it is managed as an important process that affects production quality.

How It Is Performed and Practical Points

In mass production, textile is spread in layers and cut according to the cutting layout indicated by the marking. After cutting, parts are sorted by size, color, and style, bundled and managed, and identified so they do not get mixed on the sewing line.

It is important to check and lay out the grain line, selvage, pattern direction, nap, and stretchability of the textile. In particular, for patterned materials such as stripes and checks, fuzzy materials, and directional prints, the left and right appearance and pattern matching between parts are reviewed in advance.

• Before cutting, check color differences and textile defects for each roll.
• Clarify whether the pattern includes seam allowance or whether seam allowance is added during cutting.
• Make notches, match marks, and dart positions in a way that can be identified in later processes.
• Check the number of cut parts and the matching of left-right symmetrical parts.

Items to Confirm When Ordering

When outsourcing cutting, share the pattern, marking data or cutting instructions, as well as textile width, consumption, shrinkage rate, pattern direction, and cutting method. Also decide in advance the quantity to be delivered of textile and auxiliary materials, how leftover rolls are handled, and the packing form for parts at delivery.

If a specification change occurs after cutting has started, it may lead to recutting or a shortage of textile. Before placing the order, it is important to confirm the quantities by size and color, the number of pattern sets, whether pattern matching is required, and the standard for unacceptable textile defects.

Quality Points

For cutting quality, check for deviation from the cut line, dimensional errors in parts, grain line distortion, missing match marks, and fraying or heat-sealed cut edges. In layered cutting, textile shifting is likely to occur, so adjust the spreading and cutting conditions according to the slipperiness, thickness, and stretchability of the material.

Knits and parts cut on the bias are easy to stretch, and even in woven fabrics, dimensions will not be stable if there is skewing or shrinkage. If necessary, straighten the grain or apply scouring before cutting, and before mass production, perform trial cutting and sewing checks to identify issues.

Differences from Similar Terms

Spreading is the work of layering and laying out textile in a specified length and number of layers so that it can be cut; it is not the cutting work itself. Marking refers to arranging the patterns efficiently to determine material consumption and cutting positions, or the information for that arrangement.

Cutting refers to the entire process of cutting textile, while cutting shears are the tool used for cutting. A pattern is design information showing the shape and dimensions of the product parts, and cutting is the process of reflecting that information in the actual textile.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is straightening done before cutting?

It is done to correct distortion and skew in the textile and make it easier to cut the parts along the grain line. If cutting is done while the grain line is off, the product may twist after sewing, or the silhouette and pattern appearance may become unstable. The need depends on the characteristics of the material.

What kind of textile needs pattern matching in cutting?

Stripes, checks, plaids, borders, and directional prints may require the pattern position to be matched between the left and right body panels or pockets. Since pattern matching may increase material consumption, it is important to decide in advance the priority areas and acceptable range during the planning stage.

How is the cutting quantity checked?

Based on production quantities by size and color, the number of parts needed for each product is calculated and confirmed. Left-right pairs, outer fabric and lining, interlining, and other materials are managed separately, and after cutting the number of pieces in each bundle is checked. Replacement quantities due to textile defects are also included in the management.