Duffle Cloth
Duffle cloth is generally a thick wool-based woven fabric used mainly for autumn and winter coats, woven with thick spun yarn and given thickness and warmth through fulling and brushing.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Duffle cloth is a thick fabric used for heavy outerwear, as typified by duffle coats. It is mainly made from wool, but there are also qualities that blend synthetic fibers and other materials depending on the intended use and ease of handling. It is a fabric name, and does not uniformly indicate the blend ratio or weave structure of the material.
Texture and Function
It is characterized by thickness and bulk, with a full, rustic hand. Fulling is a process that kneads and shrinks woven fabric to make the structure denser, giving the fabric body and a wearing comfort that helps block cold air. The surface is often brushed, giving it a soft and warm appearance.
On the other hand, depending on the fabric weight and the degree of fulling, it can become heavy and tends not to have the light drape of a thin fabric. Surface fuzz may develop pilling or a rough nap due to friction, so abrasion resistance and pilling resistance should also be checked according to the intended use.
Main Uses
The main uses are autumn and winter outerwear such as duffle coats, short coats, blousons, and jackets. Making use of the thickness, firmness, and surface character of the fabric, it pairs well with straight, roomy silhouettes and designs with a hood, patch pockets, and similar details.
Outside of apparel, it may also be used for bags and accessories, taking advantage of its thickness and sturdy impression. However, apparel use and miscellaneous goods use require different levels of strength, back-side finishing, and sewing specifications, so it is necessary to confirm whether the quality is suitable for the actual application.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting, check the blend ratio, fabric weight, fabric width, thickness, and the degree of fulling and brushing. For coats, not only warmth but also the finished garment weight, the shape retention of the collar and hood, and the thickness at seam allowances are important. Before full production, confirm the appearance and sewability with sewing samples including interlining and lining.
Duffle cloth containing wool may shrink or change texture when washed in water. Washing methods vary depending on the blend and finishing process, so follow the care label and the handling conditions provided by the fabric supplier. Before cutting, let the fabric relax off the roll, and if necessary, perform wetting or sponging to check dimensional change.
Because it is a thick fabric, unevenness tends to occur where seam allowances overlap, so special care is needed at the neckline, pocket openings, hem, and similar areas. Consider trimming seam allowances and offsetting thickness, and adjust the needle, thread, and feed conditions through test stitching. High-temperature ironing can flatten the fuzz or cause shine, so use a pressing cloth and an appropriate temperature setting.
Differences from Similar Terms
Melton is generally a thick wool woven fabric finished by strong fulling so that the surface becomes smooth and compact. Duffle cloth may refer to a fabric that retains more of the weave texture and fuzz than melton, but the way the terms are used varies somewhat in planning and distribution.
Tweed is a general term for wool woven fabrics characterized by a coarse surface, heathered appearance, and patterns. Duffle cloth also has a rustic look, but it is used as a fabric name with an emphasis on the thickness and fulled feel suited to duffle coats. Flannel is a brushed woven fabric also used for lighter clothing fabrics, and it often differs from duffle cloth in thickness and intended use.
FAQ
Can duffle cloth be washed at home?
Whether home washing is possible depends on the wool blend ratio, the fulling and brushing processes, and the product specifications including lining and interlining. Shrinkage, felting, and loss of shape may occur with water washing, so give priority to the product care label. At the fabric stage, conduct washing tests before mass production to confirm shrinkage rate and changes in texture.
Are duffle cloth and melton the same?
They are sometimes treated as the same, but strictly speaking they are not always identical. Melton tends to refer to fabric that has been strongly fulled to make the surface dense and smooth, while duffle cloth may be used to describe fabric with the thickness and rustic surface character suited to duffle coats. When adopting it, confirm not only the name but also the actual surface, thickness, and weight.
