Edge Stitching

Definition and Overview

Edge stitching is stitching applied close to the edge of collars, plackets, facings, pocket openings, belts, and similar parts. It serves both to stabilize seam allowances and folded sections and to enhance the outline with a decorative effect.

On the shop floor, it may also be called a edge stitching machine, but this can refer to the work of applying edge stitching, or to the sewing machine or presser foot used for that work. In instruction sheets, separating the sewing specification from the names of equipment and parts helps prevent misunderstandings.

Position in the Process

Edge stitching is often added after the shape of the edge has been set, such as by sewing parts together and pressing seam allowances open or to one side. Because it is sewn from the right side, the uniformity of the stitching line directly affects the product’s appearance.

For areas with interfacing or thick overlaps, first check the seam, presser foot marks, and stitch quality on stepped sections using a sewing sample. In projects that involve garment washing or garment dyeing, judgment should also include shrinkage and the appearance of the stitching after processing.

• In the specification sheet, indicate the target area, whether it is the right side or wrong side, and the starting and ending points of the stitching.
• Specify the distance from the edge, thread color, thread thickness, and stitch density together with the sewing sample.
• Decide whether backstitching is used at corners, curves, and overlaps, and how those areas are handled.

Procedure and Practical Points

The closer the stitching is to the edge, the more noticeable slight waviness or variation in distance becomes. Since feedability changes depending on fabric thickness, surface slipperiness, stretch, and fuzziness, select the presser foot, needle, sewing thread, and feed settings to suit the fabric.

Before sewing, confirm whether the seam allowance width and folded width on the pattern are designed so that the intended stitch position can be sewn consistently. Especially at tips and narrow facings, uneven seam allowance thickness can easily cause fading marks or puckering on the right side.

Ordering and Quality Precautions

When placing an order with a sewing factory, a simple instruction such as “edge stitching” may not uniquely define the finished result. Before mass production, it is important to share the appearance from the edge, straightness, left-right symmetry, and treatment of corners and curves as approval criteria in the sample.

During inspection, check for waviness in the stitching, uneven distance from the edge, skipped stitches, irregular thread tension, puckering, and stitching defects. Depending on the material and color, needle holes and presser foot marks may also stand out, so check the appearance under different lighting conditions.

Differences from Similar Terms

Lockstitch is the basic sewing construction that uses upper and lower threads, while edge stitching is a term that mainly refers to the position and purpose of stitching placed at the edge. Although lockstitch is often used for edge stitching, the two do not mean the same thing.

Edge finishing and double folding are tailoring methods used to prevent fraying and finish fabric edges. Edge stitching may be added after those steps to hold the edge in place. Bar tack is a reinforcing stitch for areas under stress, and its purpose differs from edge stitching, which continuously stitches along the edge.

Frequently Asked Questions