Gobelins Weave

Definition and Overview

Gobelins Weave is a woven fabric that uses wefts in many colors to create precise patterns such as floral, figure, landscape, and geometric designs. In general, it refers to a decorative, heavy fabric that evokes tapestry.

The name comes from the Gobelins workshop in France, but in current textile trading, Jacquard fabrics that similarly express multicolored, painterly patterns are often broadly called Gobelins Weave.

Features

Because multiple colors of thread appear on the surface, it offers a woven three-dimensional feel unlike printing, depth created by blended colors, and a classic, substantial appearance. Depending on the thread arrangement and structure, the pattern and color may look different on the front and back.

It generally has thickness and moderate firmness, and is less likely to drape than lightweight fabric. Materials include cotton, polyester, rayon, and acrylic, and weight, firmness, and durability vary greatly depending on composition, density, and the amount of ground thread.

Main Applications

With its decorative quality and presence, it is used for jackets, coats, skirts, dresses, vests, bags, stage costumes, and more. Fabrics with more thickness are also suitable for structured silhouettes and partial use.

It is often seen in autumn and winter apparel and fashion accessories, but lightweight versions are also used for spring and summer items. It is also sometimes used for interior applications such as cushion covers and upholstery.

• If the pattern is large, check how it appears at the front bodice, pockets, and seam placement.
• Specifications for apparel fabric and interior use differ in texture, width, abrasion resistance, and other design factors, so choose the specification that suits the application.

How to Choose and Handling Precautions

When selecting, check the composition, industry weight, thickness, stretch, and size of the pattern, as well as the condition of the float yarns on the back. For apparel, the feel against the skin, snagging, and seam allowance thickness affect comfort and sewing specifications, so always confirm with a prototype.

The degree of shrinkage, color fading, pilling, and deformation caused by washing varies depending on the material and structure. Some items are not suitable for home washing, so follow the care label. For products intended to be water washed, check the shrinkage rate before cutting and, if necessary, prewash in hot water.

When cutting, decide in advance the placement of large patterns and the left-right pattern matching. Thick fabrics are prone to bulk where seam allowances overlap, so consider treatments that reduce seam bulk and step differences. Care is also needed with the sewing machine needle, presser foot, and handling so as not to catch the back yarns.

Difference from Jacquard

Jacquard is a broad term for the weaving method used to weave patterns, or for the loom and fabric associated with that method. Gobelins Weave, on the other hand, often refers to a fabric with multicolored, painterly, tapestry-like patterns and a substantial texture, and is treated as a type of Jacquard fabric.

However, usage in distribution varies. Not all Jacquard fabrics are Gobelins Weave, and even fabrics referred to as Gobelins Weave do not have uniform structures, materials, or thickness. It is important not to judge by the name alone, but to check the fabric swatch and specifications.

Frequently Asked Questions