Weaving
Weaving is the process of making woven fabric by crossing warp yarns and weft yarns at right angles on a loom, and designing the structure, density, and yarn usage.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Weaving is the process of forming woven fabric by alternately passing weft yarns across warp yarns arranged in the lengthwise direction. The interlacing order of the yarns is called the weave structure, and plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, and others change the fabric’s appearance and properties.
Before weaving, processes such as warping, which aligns the warp yarns in the required number and length, and sizing, which applies starch to make weaving easier, may be carried out. The woven fabric may then proceed as greige fabric to dyeing and finishing processes.
Factors That Determine Hand and Function
The hand, firmness, thickness, drape, breathability, and durability of woven fabric are determined not only by the material, but also by the yarn thickness and twist, the density of the warp and weft, the weave structure, and the combination of finishing processes. Even with the same fiber, the impression can differ greatly depending on the weaving design.
In general, increasing the density makes it easier to achieve a firmer surface feel and wind resistance. On the other hand, depending on the yarn type and structure, stiffness may develop or breathability and sewability may change, so it is necessary to check suitability for the intended application.
Control of tension during weaving and the condition of the yarn also affect the fabric’s texture. If the warp yarn tension is uneven, for example, it can affect the appearance and dimensional stability after weaving, so this is checked during inspection.
Main Applications
Woven fabrics made by weaving are widely used for shirts, blouses, pants, skirts, jackets, coats, dresses, bags, uniforms, and more. The design range spans from lightweight to heavy fabrics, making it possible to create fabrics suited to the season and item.
Lightweight, breathable woven fabrics made with fine yarns are used for spring and summer apparel, while woven fabrics combined with thick yarns or brushed finishes are used for autumn and winter apparel. However, the suitable season also depends on the type of fiber, density, and finishing process.
Selection and Handling Notes
When choosing fabric, do not judge by the weave name alone; check the blend ratio, fabric weight, density, fabric width, stretch, sheerness, shrinkage rate, and color fastness. Because individual variation and lot-to-lot differences can occur depending on weaving conditions and subsequent finishing, confirm the hand and performance with samples before mass production.
Many woven fabrics are less stretchy than knits, and it is important to handle the grain correctly. Before cutting, if necessary, let the fabric relax and straighten the grain, and in sewing set the needle, thread, and feed conditions to match the fabric thickness and slipperiness to prevent puckering.
Shrinkage and shape changes caused by washing differ depending on the fiber, structure, and dyeing and finishing processes. For products intended for water washing, confirm in advance whether a washing test or pre-washing is necessary, and ultimately follow the fabric or product care label.
Difference from Knitting
Weaving is the method of making woven fabric by crossing warp and weft yarns, whereas knitting is the method of making knit fabric by forming continuous loops with yarn. Woven fabrics are more suitable for dimensional stability and woven pattern expression, while knits are more likely to provide stretch and conformity to the body.
However, some woven fabrics have stretch through stretch yarns or structural design, and some knits have stable structures. Do not determine performance by the production method name alone; judge suitability for the intended use based on actual fabric samples and test results.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are weaving and woven fabric the same thing?
Weaving refers to the process of making woven fabric, while woven fabric refers to the fabric produced by that process. In practical use, weaving conditions mean the design and control conditions for weaving fabric, such as the yarn type, the density of the warp and weft, the structure, and the tension on the loom.
Does weaving determine fabric shrinkage?
The density and tension during weaving affect how the fabric shrinks, but the shrinkage rate is also influenced by the properties of the fiber, yarn twist, dyeing and finishing processes, and washing conditions. In planning, it is important to conduct washing tests not only on the fabric alone, but on the finished product including interfacing and sewing specifications.
What should be checked when sewing woven fabric?
Check the grain, right and wrong sides, selvage condition, thickness, slipperiness, tendency to fray, and stretch. In particular, high-density, lightweight, or slippery woven fabrics are more prone to seam slippage and puckering, so adjust the needle size, thread, presser foot pressure, and feed through test sewing.
