Hemp

Definition and Overview

Hemp is a plant fiber collected from the bast layer near the outer skin of the stems of plants in the Cannabis family. Hemp as a fiber is generally handled separately from materials intended for ingredients used in recreational products or pharmaceuticals, and in apparel it is used as yarn and woven fabric.

“Linen” may be used as a general term for plant fibers, and in labeling and commercial transactions it may refer to materials other than hemp. To accurately identify the material, it is important to check the blend ratio, textile specifications, and care tag.

Characteristics

Because hemp fibers are relatively thick and strong, it is a material that tends to feel crisp and firm, with a dry, smooth touch. Irregularities and variations in thickness from the fibers may appear as a rustic, natural look.

It is easy to make use of its moisture absorption and breathability, so it is used as a material for spring and summer. On the other hand, suppleness, luster, sheerness, and the feel against the skin vary greatly depending on yarn thickness, weave structure, finishing, and blending with other fibers.

Main Applications

Lightweight to medium-weight hemp textiles are used for shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, and easy pants. Making use of their cool appearance, they are suitable for spring and summer casual wear, resort wear, and natural-style clothing.

Heavyweight or densely woven textiles are also used for jackets, work-style bottoms, bags, hats, aprons, and interior accessories. Some textiles are blended with cotton or rayon to adjust stiffness, drape, and ease of handling.

Selection and Handling Notes

For the intended use, check the industry weight, density, sheerness, blend ratio, and weave structure. For apparel, the roughness of the surface that touches the skin and the feel around seams are also important. It is reassuring to check the texture, post-wash dimensions, and puckering after sewing using a product sample.

Because it contains natural fibers, shrinkage and wrinkling may occur during washing. Since shrinkage rates differ by textile, whether to pre-wash before cutting should be determined based on the textile specifications and test results. Washing and ironing should follow the product care instructions.

Because the fabric edges may fray easily, finish them promptly with overlock stitching after cutting. For stiff textiles, be careful about skipped stitches and seam slippage where layers become thick, and adjust the needle, thread, and stitch conditions in advance with test sewing.

Differences from Similar Terms

Linen is a bast fiber obtained from the stems of flax, so the source plant is different from hemp. Both are sometimes called “linen,” but the fiber thickness, texture, and appearance of the yarn are not uniform and vary depending on the raw material, spinning, and finishing.

Ramie is also a bast fiber made from ramie. In general, ramie may be handled as a material that makes use of its crisp feel and luster, but as with hemp, the actual difference depends on the textile design and finishing, so it is important not to judge by the name alone.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are hemp and linen the same material?

No, they are not the same. Hemp is a bast fiber from the Cannabis family, while linen is a bast fiber made from flax. Both may be collectively referred to as linen, but the source plants are different. The texture is also affected by yarn thickness, weave structure, finishing, and blend ratio, so it should be checked with a fabric sample.

Does hemp fabric need to be prewashed before cutting?

If shrinkage from washing is expected, consider prewashing or straightening the grain before cutting. However, the necessity and method differ depending on the textile finishing, blend ratio, and product washing conditions. It is important to confirm the textile specifications and perform washing tests and dimensional checks before full production.