Narrow Width / Wide Width
Narrow width and wide width are terms used to classify the finished width from selvage to selvage of fabric, and are standards that affect cutting efficiency, required yardage, pattern layout, and sewing specifications.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Narrow width and wide width are classifications based on fabric width. Narrow width refers to fabric with a relatively narrow width, while wide width refers to fabric with a relatively wide width, but there is no uniform standard for the dimension that separates the two; the naming varies depending on the material, place of origin, intended use, and trade practices.
Fabric width is the measurement from selvage to selvage. Width indications are used not only for woven fabrics but also for knits and nonwovens. Narrow width and wide width are not terms that describe construction, material, thickness, or fabric weight.
Characteristics and Effect on Appearance
Fabric width itself does not determine hand, stretch, breathability, or similar properties. Even with the same material and construction, the texture and performance of the fabric do not change simply because it is narrow width or wide width, so during planning it is important to confirm the blend ratio, fabric weight, construction, and processing details separately from width.
Wide width can make it easier to lay out large parts across the width, and in some cases can improve cutting efficiency. Narrow width is seen in fabrics handled as rolls, fabrics with narrow widths suited to smaller patterns, and fabrics with traditional specifications, and designs may require joining pieces as needed.
Main Uses and Cutting Planning
Wide width fabric is used for apparel items that include large parts, such as jackets, coats, pants, and dresses. It is also suitable for costumes, stage use, and decorative applications when a large surface area is needed. However, even with wide width, cutting efficiency changes depending on pattern direction and grain.
Narrow width fabric is used for rolls related to Japanese-style clothing, small accessories that take advantage of the narrow width, and partial applications. When used for apparel, check whether body panels, sleeves, and other parts fit within the width, and consider how join seams will affect design, strength, and pattern matching.
- With wide width, prioritize placement of large motifs and one-way patterns, and recalculate the required yardage.
- With narrow width, verify whether join positions will be noticeable and confirm the pattern including seam allowance.
- For patterned fabric, consider not only the fabric width but also the pattern repeat and extra allowance for pattern matching.
How to Choose and Handling Precautions
When selecting fabric, confirm whether the fabric width listed on the product is the finished width or the width including selvage. The actual usable width for cutting may be narrower depending on the condition of the selvage, damage at the edges, and restrictions from the pattern or grain. Before mass production, it is important to confirm the required yardage by marking with the pattern.
For fabrics that shrink through washing, steaming, or processing, changes may also occur in the width direction. In particular, designs that cut right up to the width limit should take shrinkage and the usable width after straightening into account. Whether to relax the fabric, wet it, or apply other pretreatment before cutting should be decided according to the fabric characteristics and care label instructions.
During sewing, check whether the selvage will be used as seam allowance or hem as is. Selvage may differ from the main fabric structure and hand, and can cause pulling or stiffness. When inserting a join seam, align the grain, and match the pattern for patterned fabric.
Differences from Similar Terms
Fabric width is a term that indicates the actual width measurement, while narrow width and wide width are relative classifications of that width. By contrast, a roll is a trade unit of fabric wound to a set length and is separate information from width.
Selvage refers to the parts at both edges of the fabric and serves as the reference point when measuring fabric width. Required yardage is the length of fabric needed to make a product, and it changes depending on fabric width, pattern layout, pattern matching, and shrinkage.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does wide width always reduce the required yardage?
Wide width may allow patterns to be placed more efficiently and can reduce the required yardage. However, actual cutting efficiency varies depending on one-way patterns, large motifs, bias cutting, grain restrictions, size variations, and whether join seams are used, so confirmation through actual marking is necessary.
What should be noted when using narrow width fabric for apparel?
First confirm whether each part fits within the usable width. If it does not, add join seams, while considering seam allowance, pattern matching, grain, and the strength and appearance of the stitching. Because the width may change after washing or wetting, checking before cutting is important.
