Loden

Definition and Overview

Loden is a thick fabric made by fulling woven cloth that is mainly made from wool. Fulling refers to a process that uses the properties of wool to interlock the fibers and tighten the structure. It is also known as a term derived from a place name.

The weave, the wool used as the raw material, the degree of fulling, and whether it is brushed or sheared vary from fabric to fabric. For this reason, loden is not strictly a name for a single weave structure, but is treated as a term that includes the texture and applications seen in fullled wool fabrics.

Characteristics

Fulling makes the fabric structure dense, giving it body, firmness, and warmth retention. The surface has a gentle appearance from short nap and is generally subdued in sheen. It blends well with deep colors and can express a calm, substantial feel.

Due to its dense fabric structure and the properties of wool, it tends to resist wind and to shed some rain or snow. However, it is not a waterproof fabric. Water resistance and wind resistance vary depending on the raw material, density, and processing conditions such as fulling and water-repellent finishing.

• Warm with a voluminous texture.
• The surface nap gives it a soft, rustic appearance.
• Because it is thick and dense, it tends to drape less than lighter fabrics.
• Friction and pressure may cause the nap to become uneven or glossy areas to stand out.

Main Applications

Taking advantage of its warmth retention and wind resistance, it is used for autumn and winter outerwear such as coats, blousons, jackets, and capes. Because the fabric has thickness, it suits straight, structured silhouettes and designs with a relaxed fit.

Outside apparel, it may also be used for items such as hats and bags that require moderate thickness and durability. When deciding on applications, check the fabric weight, fabric stiffness, and surface nap condition, and if necessary test compatibility with interfacing and lining.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting it, check not only the thickness but also the strength of the fulling, the length of the nap, firmness and resilience, and differences between the front and back. In areas with a lot of movement or friction such as sleeves and collars, it is important to anticipate changes in nap and gloss. Before cutting, let the fabric rest sufficiently and align the grain and nap direction.

Loden made mainly from wool may shrink or change texture due to moisture, heat, and friction. Whether it can be machine washed at home depends on the blend ratio and processing, so follow the care label. Before mass production, carry out a water soak or washing test to confirm shrinkage and dimensional change.

In sewing, adjust the needle, thread, and feed conditions according to the thickness, and pay attention to step differences at overlapping seams. When pressing, use a pressing cloth and shape it with steam without pressing too hard to help prevent crushed nap and fading.

Differences from Similar Terms

Melton is also a thick fabric made by fulling wool woven fabric, but it is generally more often seen with the surface sheared so the nap is shorter and the appearance is smoother and more uniform. Loden may be characterized by its textured nap and rustic look.

Flannel is a fabric characterized by a soft surface created by brushing, and many types are lighter and softer than loden. Because loden emphasizes density and thickness through fulling, the two may look similar on the surface, but the tightness of the fabric and the finished appearance differ.

Frequently Asked Questions