Sample Roll
A sample roll is textile or cut fabric ordered in a fixed length for material inspection, prototyping, and sewing/processing tests before mass production.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
A sample roll is fabric used to check color, texture, thickness, pattern, finishing condition, and other qualities in a length that can actually be handled. It is used to confirm drape, ease of handling during cutting, how seams look, and other points that are difficult to judge with only a small fabric swatch.
“Roll” originally refers to a unit of fabric wound in a fixed amount, but a sample roll is not necessarily the same length as a roll of greige. Depending on the trading partner or fabric type, fabric cut to the required amount may also be called a sample roll, so it is necessary to confirm the supply form and length.
Trading Situations Where It Is Used
At the planning stage, sample rolls are used for design review and material selection. Patternmakers and sewing factories use them to make prototypes, check compatibility with fusible interlining, review sewing conditions, and confirm whether pattern matching is possible. They are also useful for pretests when printing or later finishing is planned.
Before placing a mass production order, record the fabric width, fabric weight, color number, finish, and required yardage in the specification sheet based on what was confirmed with the sample roll. In particular, if the sample roll is not from the same lot as the mass production item, take care not to apply the evaluation results from the sample directly to the mass production product.
- Cutting, sewing, and wear evaluation of prototypes
- Tests for washing, shrinkage, color fading, and similar issues
- Checking combinations with fusible interlining, lining, and accessories
- Verifying pattern repeat and pattern matching
Key Points to Check and How to Think About Quantity
When requesting one, specify the length needed for the application in meters or centimeters. The required amount varies depending on the number of prototype styles, size range, pattern matching, sewing tests, and whether washing tests are included. Judge the amount not only by the yardage needed for the prototype, but also by the amount needed for straightening the grain and for testing.
Also check the fabric width, usable width, selvage condition, pattern direction, pattern repeat, right side and wrong side, and grainline. For knit or stretch fabrics, confirming dimensional changes caused by cutting, sewing, and washing with a sample roll is helpful when reviewing specifications for mass production.
The length of the sample roll, cut position, rolling direction, and inventory status at shipment differ by trading partner. Do not assume a standard fixed quantity; confirm in advance the minimum shipment quantity, whether the desired quantity can be supplied, and how remnants will be handled.
Points to Avoid Misunderstandings
When requesting a sample roll, share the fabric product number, color number, desired quantity, application, and whether mass production is planned in writing. Even with the same product number, differences in color or lot may cause variations in hue, texture, width, fabric weight, and finish. Also keep the labels and control numbers of the received fabric.
A swatch is mainly a small piece for checking color, pattern, and surface feel, and its purpose differs from a sample roll, which is fabric long enough for prototyping. Also, a sample roll does not mean mass production quality assurance or secure mass production inventory. Before mass production, arrange separately for confirmation samples and approval procedures for the production lot.
- Confirm whether the product number, color number, and finishing are the same as mass production.
- Confirm whether the sample roll and mass production item are from the same lot.
- Clarify whether the fabric after testing will be handled as a color sample or approval sample.
- Confirm conditions such as lead time, whether cutting is possible, and whether returns are possible in advance.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many meters of a sample roll are needed?
The required amount depends on the prototype item, size range, whether pattern matching is needed, and the test content. First use the yardage for one garment as the baseline, then add the amount needed for cutting loss, straightening the grain, sewing tests, and washing tests. It is important to confirm the required amount with the pattern staff or sewing contractor before requesting it.
How should sample rolls and swatches be used differently?
Swatches are small samples mainly used to compare color, pattern, surface feel, and approximate thickness. Sample rolls are used to cut and make prototypes so that sewability, pattern matching, drape, and changes after washing can be checked. When prototyping or testing, swatches alone are usually not enough.
Can the color or texture differ between the sample roll and the mass production item?
Yes. If the sample roll and the mass production item are produced at different times or from different lots, hue, texture, width, and fabric weight may vary due to differences in dyeing or finishing conditions. Before proceeding to mass production, it is safer to obtain a confirmation sample from the production lot and establish the approval criteria and verification method among the relevant parties.
