Shepherd's Check
Shepherd’s check is a traditional check pattern made by arranging light and dark yarns in a regular sequence, creating the appearance of fine checks and repeated broken shapes.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Shepherd's check is a small check pattern generally rendered in two contrasting colors such as black and white. Within the small square divisions, a broken form created by the weave structure appears, and from a distance it is seen as a calm check pattern.
The name comes from a check pattern said to have been used by shepherds. It is mainly expressed in weave using yarn-dyed threads, but there are also textiles with a similar appearance created by printing.
How the Pattern Is Formed and What It Is Called
In many cases, the pattern is made by arranging dark and light threads in a fixed sequence in the warp and weft and weaving them in a twill weave or similar structure. The size of the checks, the color arrangement, and the weave structure all change the outline and appearance of the pattern.
Usage of the name varies, and it may be treated as a small broken check similar to houndstooth. On the other hand, houndstooth usually refers to a pattern with a more distinct pointed shape likened to a bird in flight, so it should be distinguished and confirmed as a separate pattern name.
Glen check is a relatively large check pattern that combines multiple checks, and its structure differs from shepherd's check, which is based on simple small checks. When selecting textiles, do not judge by the name alone; check the actual item or swatch to confirm the size and outline of the checks.
- Fine patterns are often more likely to give an impression close to solid.
- The higher the color contrast, the more clearly the checks and broken motifs appear.
- Depending on the size and structure of the pattern, it may look similar to houndstooth.
Main Applications and Seasons
It is used for jackets, suits, pants, skirts, and dresses, as well as shirts and blouses. It easily creates a neat impression with a small pattern, and is suitable both for standalone use and for pairing with solid items.
In medium-weight materials such as worsted wool and tweed, it is used for autumn and winter jackets, suits, and coats. In lighter textiles such as cotton and polyester, it can also be used for spring and summer shirts, pants, and skirts. The pattern name itself does not determine the season; applications are judged by the material, fabric weight, and finish.
Notes for Fabric Selection and Cutting
Even within shepherd's check, the length of one side of the check and the repeat unit differ, so confirm that the scale suits the product design. For small parts such as pockets, collars, and front plackets, also consider at the planning stage how the pattern will appear when it is cut off partway through.
When aligning the checks at the left and right body panels, center front, side seams, pockets, and similar areas, lay out the pattern with matching in mind. Especially for jackets and pants, the step in the checks at the seams tends to stand out, so specifying the pattern position including seam allowance is important.
The impression of a check pattern changes depending on the cutting direction. Decide whether to cut along the grain or on the bias, and also confirm how the top and bottom and the face and back of the pattern will appear. Allow for extra fabric for matching and defects, and the required yardage may be greater than for a solid fabric.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between shepherd's check and houndstooth?
Shepherd's check is based on a fine check made with two light and dark colors, with a broken form visible through the weave structure. Houndstooth generally refers to a pattern with more distinct pointed broken motifs likened to the shape of a bird. However, because the terminology overlaps by region and industry, it is important to confirm with a pattern image and swatch.
Does shepherd's check require pattern matching?
Pattern matching is often done in areas where continuous checks are easy to notice, such as the front body of a jacket, pockets, and the side seams of pants. Even with a small pattern, steps may be visible, so the sewing specifications and acceptable range should be decided in advance. If pattern matching is performed, cutting efficiency declines, so extra yardage needs to be considered.
