Stitch Type
Stitch type is a classification used to systematically categorize the interlacing of needle thread, button loop thread, and similar threads and the structure of the seam, so that sewing specifications and quality conditions can be shared.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Stitch type is a way of classifying seams according to the thread configuration that forms the seam, how the threads cross and form loops, and the condition of the seam on the fabric. In the international standard ISO 4915, seams are organized by class and type number.
In practice, it is used in specifications and discussions with factories to communicate seam structure without misunderstanding. However, in everyday conversation, it may also be used to refer to the sewing method or the sewing machine used, such as lockstitch, chain stitch, and overlock.
Position in Product Development
Stitch type is considered at the stage of deciding the material, pattern, seam allowance design, and sewing specifications. It is selected according to the material conditions of each area and the required appearance, strength, and stretchability, such as stretch knit fabric, easily fraying woven fabric, or thick material and layered sections.
The planning side organizes the design intent and wearing conditions, and the pattern maker checks consistency with seam allowance and finishing. The sewing factory confirms the compatible machines, thread, needles, and work sequence, then verifies the appearance and performance of the seam in a sample and reflects this in mass production specifications.
- The area to be sewn and seam allowance finishing
- How the seam appears on the face and reverse sides
- Ability to follow stretch and seam strength
- Whether shrinkage, puckering, or thread breakage occurs after washing
- Usable machines and process load
Description and Procedure When Ordering
In ordering specifications, describe not only the area name, but also a combination of the stitch type or sewing method, thread used, number of needles, seam allowance width, and the treatment at the start and end of sewing. If possible, include photos of the front and back, a cross-section drawing, and a physical sample to reduce differences in interpretation.
The standard number alone may not determine thread thickness, thread tension, stitch count, or seam allowance finishing. It is also important in practice to confirm factory-specific equipment and customary specifications, and to approve the appearance and function with a pre-production sample or a sample before mass production.
Quality Considerations and Differences from Similar Terms
Even with the same stitch type, the finish changes depending on material stretch, thickness, slipperiness, the combination of thread and needle, and thread tension. Anticipate seam shrinkage, puckering, skipped stitches, seam opening, and thread breakage after washing, and check them in the finished product state.
Lockstitch, chain stitch, and overlock are representative stitch types or category names. In contrast, stitch type refers to the classification system for seam structures, including these. Also, decorative seam names such as edge stitching often indicate the sewing position or appearance, and may not match the structural classification.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it enough to write only the stitch type in the specification sheet?
Only the stitch type may not be enough to specify mass production conditions. It is important to also list the target area, seam allowance finishing, front and back appearance, thread used, stitch count, and whether backstitching is used, and to confirm with photos and sewing samples.
What should be checked for stretch knits?
Check whether the seam follows stretch during wear, and whether thread breakage or skipped stitches occur when pulled. Evaluate after washing as well, including the stretch direction of the fabric, overlapping seam allowances, and the type of thread and thread tension.
Are stitch type and machine type the same?
No, they are not the same. Stitch type is a classification related to seam structure, while the machine is the equipment that forms it. There may be multiple machines that correspond to one type, and the finish may change depending on the conditions even with the same machine.
