Tattersall

Definition and Overview

Tattersall is a check pattern with fine lines arranged regularly in vertical and horizontal directions on a white or light-colored ground. The vertical and horizontal lines may be made in the same color, or different colors may be combined, creating a light and neat impression.

The lines that form the grid are relatively thin, and a large area of the ground color is visible. Since the pattern name does not indicate a weave structure or material, it is used on various textiles such as plain weave, oxford, and flannel.

Pattern Origin and Name

The name Tattersall is said to come from horse blankets used at a British horse market. Because of this background, it can evoke riding wear or country-style clothing, but today it is widely used mainly for shirting fabrics.

It is often made by creating the grid with yarn-dyed threads, and the appearance changes depending on the thickness of the lines, the spacing between the lines, and the color scheme. There are versions that use fine two-color lines and others that use single-color lines for a simpler look, and there is some variation in how the name is applied in trade.

Main Applications and Seasonality

Typical applications include dress shirts, casual shirts, and blouses. Small, delicate grids are suited to dressy shirts, while wider spacing or stronger color combinations are used for casual shirts, dresses, and skirts.

The pattern itself is not limited to any season. In lightweight cotton or linen blends, it can be used for spring and summer; in brushed cotton or wool blends, it can be used for fall and winter. Seasonal suitability is determined not only by the colors in the check, but also by the material, thickness, and whether the surface is brushed.

• Shirts and blouses: Fine patterns and pale color schemes blend in easily.
• Dresses and skirts: The pitch of the pattern and the placement of seams affect how it looks.
• Jackets: It is important to balance the fabric thickness with the size of the grid.

Fabric Selection and Cutting Notes

When selecting fabric, check the size of the grid, the garment size, and the position of the seams. Fine patterns make mismatch less noticeable, while dark lines or large grids make misalignment more noticeable at the center front, collar, pocket, and side seams.

Before cutting, confirm that the grainline is parallel to the pattern lines, and judge the appearance of the pattern orientation from a sample. Even when the lines are evenly spaced, if the color layout has a direction, one-way cutting may be required. Specifying the pattern placement on the body, sleeves, and pockets may increase the required yardage.

• Check the position of the vertical and horizontal lines at the center front of the front body.
• Confirm the continuity of the pattern on the left and right front bodies, collar, yoke, and sleeves.
• Decide in the specifications whether the chest pocket should blend into the body or be shown with a pattern break.
• Check shrinkage before cutting and also confirm any pattern distortion after straightening the fabric.

Differences from Similar Terms

Gingham generally refers to a pattern that creates a grid through the crossing of colored and white threads, producing checks through color contrast. Tattersall is centered on the look of fine lines forming checks on a light ground, and differs in that the check areas do not appear filled in.

Windowpane refers to a relatively large grid like a window frame. It often has wider spacing than Tattersall, and the scale of the checks is different. However, there is no standardized rule for line width or spacing, so the naming also depends on planning and trade judgments.

Frequently Asked Questions