Allover Lace

Definition and Overview

Allover means “across the entire surface,” and refers to a condition in which the lace pattern spreads across the full width of the fabric. Rather than a narrow lace trim for edging, it is treated as a wide-width lace fabric that can be cut into parts such as bodices and sleeves.

“Total lace” is often used to mean a design that uses lace for the entire garment or most of it. By contrast, allover lace mainly refers to the way the lace pattern extends across the fabric or to the type of fabric itself, so the two terms may sometimes be used with the same meaning, but they refer to different things.

Construction and Materials

Allover lace includes raschel lace made on a warp knitting machine, embroidery lace with embroidery applied to a base fabric such as tulle, and chemical lace, which leaves a pattern by dissolving the base fabric. Depending on the manufacturing method, the sheerness, three-dimensional look of the pattern, and ease of handling at the edges will differ.

Materials are often synthetic fibers such as polyester and nylon, but cotton, rayon, and silk are also used. Those containing polyurethane are easier to make stretchy and are used for applications that require a close fit. In addition to the material name, also check whether there is a base fabric and the knitting direction.

Visual Characteristics

Patterns such as floral prints, geometric patterns, or designs highlighted with cord are repeated across the entire ground structure. The contrast between openwork sections and patterned sections gives a sense of lightness and elegance. The size of the pattern affects both how the garment looks and cutting efficiency.

Lace with a scalloped edge at the hem can be placed at the hemline or cuffs to make use of that shape. However, the cutting plan differs depending on whether the scallop is present on both selvages or only on one side. Also check the pattern direction, left-right symmetry, and pattern repeat in advance.

• The amount of sheerness varies greatly depending on the mesh of the base fabric, embroidery density, and the color of the lining.
• Large patterns make it easier to create a strong presence, but small pieces tend to cut off the pattern in the middle.
• Items with raised cord or embroidery tend to make surface texture and unevenness more noticeable.

Main Applications

Used for blouses, skirts, dresses, lingerie, and more. In addition to full-surface use, it can also be used partially at the yoke, sleeves, hem, and so on to incorporate sheerness selectively. Depending on the application, the combination with lining or other fabrics is designed accordingly.

When used as the outer fabric of a garment, a lining or pressing cloth may be layered to reduce skin transparency. The color of the lining affects how the lace pattern appears, so it is important to check the color, shadows, and sheerness with the layers together.

Selection and Handling Precautions

When selecting, check the pattern size, pattern direction, whether a scalloped edge is present, fabric width, stretch, and how easily the edges fray. Stretch lace can change dimensions easily during cutting and sewing, so align the grain and use stay tape as needed.

Lace can suffer thread breakage or fraying due to snagging. In sewing, confirm the stability of seams that cross over patterns, needle holes, and puckering through sample trials. For thin materials or those with a large mesh, the method used to finish seam allowances also affects appearance and strength.

Washing methods differ depending on the material and processing, so always follow the washing instructions and test results for each fabric. In general, avoid strong friction, contact with metal parts of other garments, and excessive pulling. Shrinkage, loss of shape, and fraying after washing should be checked before commercialization.

Frequently Asked Questions