Embroidery

Definition and Overview

Embroidery is a process that creates patterns by stitching embroidery thread into the base textile. It can express lines, areas, letters, and more, and the appearance and three-dimensional effect change depending on the thread color, thickness, stitching method, and density. In apparel, it is used not only for decoration but also for brand identification and affiliation identification.

There are hand embroidery and machine embroidery, and in mass production, processing is often done with an embroidery machine based on data. In machine embroidery, the design is converted into embroidery data, and processing is carried out by setting the thread colors, stitching order, stitching density, and other parameters, so a data creation step is required separately from the design itself.

Process in Product Manufacturing

Embroidery may be added before cutting on textile, or after cutting on hardware or finished sewn products. The appropriate timing is determined according to position accuracy, production efficiency, and the shape of the product. Processing on flat hardware such as pockets or front panels is a method that makes position control easier.

In general, after the design is decided, the submitted data and finished position are checked, and thread color, size, density, and the condition on the reverse side are confirmed by test stitching. Production proceeds based on the approved sample, and when processing is done after sewing, it is also confirmed whether the product can fit in the frame and whether seam allowance or attached parts will interfere.

• Embroidery positions are specified by dimensions from reference points on the pattern.
• For left and right body panels or left and right sleeves, the position is checked including how it will look when worn.
• The embroidery area and surrounding sewing specifications, as well as the positions of attachments such as pockets and zippers, are checked in advance.

Instructions and Workflow for Orders

When placing an order, clarify the design to be submitted, finished dimensions, embroidery position, thread color, and information about the textile or product to be processed. For designs that include text, also specify the typeface, letter spacing, and orientation from top to bottom and left to right. Small letters and thin lines are affected by thread thickness and needle movement, so it is important to confirm visibility through test stitching.

Even with the same design, embroidery data may need adjustment depending on textile thickness, stretch, nap, and weave density. Make samples under conditions close to the textile used for mass production, and if necessary, use a backing material to control stretching and shrinkage of the textile.

• Name of the material to be processed, thickness, stretch, and surface fuzziness
• Embroidery size, position, orientation, and allowable range of position deviation
• Method for specifying thread color and the points where color changes occur
• In addition to the appearance on the front side, the treatment on the reverse side and the feel against the skin

Quality Points to Watch and Differences from Similar Terms

In embroidery, textile shrinkage, rippling, thread breakage, thread protrusion, pattern misalignment, and visible bobbin thread are among the quality-check items. Since thin fabrics, stretch materials, and fuzzy materials are particularly prone to effects, the appearance around the embroidery should be checked both laid flat and in the worn state. Changes after washing should also be checked according to the application.

Printing is a process that expresses a pattern by adhering or penetrating ink or similar materials into the surface of the textile, and it differs from embroidery, which expresses a pattern by stitching in thread, in both method and thickness. Also, a patch often refers to a specification in which an embroidered base is sewn or bonded on as a separate part, and it is handled separately from processing that directly embroiders onto the textile.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are embroidery data and design data for submission the same?

No. Design data is data for conveying the design, while embroidery data is data that sets the needle movement, stitching order, thread colors, and other parameters to operate the embroidery machine. When creating embroidery data from a design, adjustments may be needed to match the textile and finished dimensions.

Can embroidery be done on stretchy textile?

Processing is possible, but if the textile stretches, the pattern may distort or the embroidered area may become taut. It is important to check the stretch direction of the textile and the embroidery area, and to use backing material, adjust stitching density, and perform test stitching. Also check the appearance when worn and after washing.

How should the embroidery position be specified?

Indicate it on the specification sheet or pattern using dimensions from reference points such as the center front line, neckline, or pocket opening. Also clearly state the center of the design, the top-bottom and left-right orientation, and whether it is symmetrical. When processing on the product, confirm on the actual item that there is no interference with seams or attached parts.