Warp Double Weave / Weft Double Weave

Definition and Overview

Warp double weave uses two sets of warp yarns and one set of weft yarns, while weft double weave mainly uses one set of warp yarns and two sets of weft yarns. One yarn group appears mostly on the face side and the other on the back side, and they are interlocked where necessary to form a single fabric.

Different counts, colors, fibers, and weaves can be arranged on the face and back sides, allowing the surface appearance and back-side properties to be designed according to the intended use. Warp double weave and weft double weave refer to woven structures, not material names.

Features

Because two sets of yarns are used, these structures generally tend to create more thickness, fullness, and a firmer hand than a comparable single-layer weave. Combining a densely brushed finish or a double-sided finish can enhance volume and surface richness.

Since color, luster, and weave texture can be varied between the face and back, the fabric gains depth of expression. However, both sides are not necessarily intended for use as the face side. The face/back designation should be confirmed with the fabric swatch and development specifications.

• Warp double weave is a structure that makes it easier to vary vertical color and appearance by selecting the face and back warp yarns.
• Weft double weave is a structure that makes it easier to vary horizontal color and appearance by selecting the face and back weft yarns.
• Thickness, warmth, and drape vary greatly depending on the material, density, finish, and weave design.

Main Applications

It is used for jackets, coats, blousons, skirts, pants, dresses, and more, taking advantage of its moderate thickness and structured feel. Those made with wool, cashmere, or similar fibers and given a brushed or fulled finish may be selected as autumn and winter outerwear fabrics.

Designs that change color or texture between the face and back are suitable for garments with turned-over details such as collars, cuffs, hoods, and facings, where the back side is also visible. Since it can be designed from lightweight to heavy fabrics, the intended use should be judged together with fabric weight and finish.

How to Choose and Handling Precautions

When selecting a fabric, check the face/back designation, thickness, fabric weight, firmness, drape, and how easily the edges fray. If different materials or yarns are used on the face and back, attention is also needed for dye affinity, color transfer due to friction, and appearance after washing.

For items containing natural fibers or brushed goods, washing or steam may change shrinkage, nap, width, and hand. Before full production, carry out a water soak or washing test and reflect the shrinkage rate in the pattern.

In sewing, adjust the needle, thread, presser foot pressure, and seam finishing according to the thickness. Stepped areas are more prone to seam misalignment and puckering, so test sewing should be used to check seam sinking, feeding, and press marks from ironing.

Differences from Similar Terms

Double weave often refers to a structure in which two woven fabrics are bonded together as one, and it may also include designs with a space between the two layers. In contrast, warp double weave and weft double weave focus on using two sets of either warp or weft yarns to form the face and back structures.

Double face is a term for a fabric whose both face and back can be used as decorative surfaces. Warp double weave and weft double weave can be finished to look like double face fabric, but the weave structure and the product appearance are not identical terms.

Frequently Asked Questions