Bengaline

Definition and Overview

Bengaline is a woven fabric with fine horizontal ribs that appear continuously on the surface. The ribs are created by a weave structure that brings more warp yarns to the surface, and the uneven rib texture and relatively dense weave give it a firm appearance.

The material is not fixed, and some versions use rayon, polyester, nylon, and the like. Today, many fabrics are made with polyurethane blended in to give stretch, mainly in the horizontal direction.

Texture and Function

It has a ribbed surface feel and looks more raised and neat than flat plain weave. In general, it has body and resilience, and even in a lightweight fabric it is easy to achieve some thickness, which helps create a silhouette that does not cling too much to the body’s lines.

Stretch types move with the body easily and are also suitable for slim items, but the degree of stretch, thickness, and drape vary greatly depending on the blend ratio and finishing. It is important to check the rib direction, recovery, and sheerness with a fabric swatch.

Main Applications

It is mainly used for pants, skirts, dresses, and jackets. Making use of the rib texture and moderate thickness, it is used widely from polished casual wear to uniforms.

The suitable season differs depending on the material and fabric weight. Lightweight, breathable types are used for spring and summer, while denser, thicker types are used for autumn and winter. Stretch types are also suitable for slim pants and garments that require a lot of movement.

• Pants
• Skirts
• Dresses
• Jackets
• Uniforms

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the rib thickness and clarity, thickness, stretch recovery, and blend ratio according to the intended use. For fabrics that stretch horizontally, follow the grainline in the pattern and set ease and dimensions while considering how the garment will stretch when worn.

Shrinkage from washing, color fading, and rib distortion vary depending on the material and processing. Before mass production, perform a prewash or washing test and confirm the shrinkage rate. In sewing, do not pull the fabric, and use stay tape or similar methods on areas that stretch easily to reduce seam waviness.

For pressing, use a pressing cloth so as not to flatten the ribs, and follow the care label and material for temperature settings. In particular, synthetic fibers that are weak to heat and fabrics containing polyurethane require care to avoid shine and changes in texture caused by high-temperature pressing.

Differences from Similar Terms

Ottoman is also a woven fabric with crosswise ribs, but the term usually refers to thicker, more pronounced ribs and a more substantial texture than Bengaline. However, there is some variation in market usage regarding rib thickness and naming conventions.

Faille also features crosswise ribs, but it may refer to a silk-like fabric with fine ribs and a glossy finish. Corduroy is a woven fabric with cut pile that creates vertical ribs, and unlike Bengaline, which expresses horizontal ribs through the weave structure, its rib direction and structure are different.

Frequently Asked Questions