Bound Buttonhole

Definition and Overview

A bound buttonhole is a buttonhole in which the button slit made in the outer fabric is edged with welts made from narrow fabric, creating a neat, decorative finish without exposing the buttonhole stitches. Because the slit is framed by two narrow welts on the surface, it gives a refined appearance.

A bound buttonhole is not a term for the hole in the button itself or the shape of the shank; it is a way of finishing the buttonhole on the garment side. The length of the opening and the welt finish are designed to suit the button thickness, shank height, and placement.

Structure and Construction Process

In general, a reinforcing cloth is layered and sewn to the back side of the outer fabric, and the center is slit open. After cutting precisely to the corners at both ends of the slit, the reinforcing cloth is turned to the back side and shaped into two narrow welts. Reinforcing tape or facings are placed on the back side to strengthen the opening.

The finished result depends on the welt width, parallel alignment, corner shape, and the strength of the ends of the opening. Thick fabrics tend to make seam allowances bulky, and thin or stretchy fabrics tend to make the slit unstable, so selecting the interlining and reinforcing cloth, and making a test sample before sewing, are important.

• The welt is the narrow edge visible above and below the opening.
• The corners at both ends of the slit are handled carefully so the welt corners do not split or pucker.
• When the opening will be subjected to stress during fastening and unfastening, reinforcement on the back side and confirmation of the button placement are necessary.

Main Uses and Design

Bound buttonholes are used in tailored jackets, coats, vests, and neatly finished pants. They may also be used not only for front openings but also for chest pocket or hip pocket flaps, or as decorative button placements.

The opening length is not determined only by the button diameter; it is decided with the button thickness and shape, whether or not there is a shank wrap, and the thickness of the fabric being used. A fastening test should be carried out with the actual button to confirm that it is not too tight or too loose.

The unit line is not usually used to specify the dimensions of a bound buttonhole itself. Line is mainly a unit for button diameter, while bound buttonholes are generally specified in mm for the finished opening length and welt width.

Differences from Similar Terms

A straight buttonhole is a linear buttonhole finished with overcasting thread and is often used for shirts and blouses. In contrast, a bound buttonhole surrounds the slit with fabric welts, so the process is different and the tailoring finish is more visible.

An eyelet buttonhole is a buttonhole with rounded ends on one or both sides, reinforced by thread overcasting. Bound buttonholes usually do not have an overcast thread edge like an eyelet buttonhole. Also, because welts are used for finishing pocket edges such as welt pockets, a bound buttonhole can be understood as an application of that technique to a buttonhole.

Handling and Quality Checks

Whether washing, dry cleaning, or ironing is possible is determined not only by the bound buttonhole but by the combination of the garment's outer fabric, interlining, lining, and other materials. Since shrinkage from washing or heat, lifting of fusible interlining, and seam allowance show-through can affect the shape of the welt, the product care label must be followed.

Before mass production, check the left and right welt widths, length, parallelism, fraying at the corners, and the condition of the reinforcement on the back side. On dark fabrics, watch for shine from pressing; on light fabrics, also watch for stains and adhesive bleed-through, and consider a pressing cloth and appropriate pressing conditions.

Frequently Asked Questions