Burnout
Burnout is a finishing process that dissolves part of a textile made by combining fibers with different properties using chemicals, creating a pattern with sheerness in some areas and remaining fibers in others.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Burnout processing is done by applying chemicals in a pattern to union woven or knit fabrics made by combining cellulose fibers with synthetic fibers and the like. It is a process that partially removes only the fibers that react to the chemicals, creating a pattern with a sheer appearance.
The contrast between the remaining fiber areas and the areas where fibers have been removed and become thinner creates a light, lace-like look. It is also called devoré, devore, or burnout, and the use of these names varies by industry and trading partner.
Features
Because sheer areas and remaining areas coexist within a single textile, the pattern gains depth. Depending on the base textile, the type of fibers left in place, and the area covered by the pattern, the look can range from delicate and elegant to modern with strong contours.
Areas where fibers have been removed become thinner and are easier to make breathable and lightweight, but depending on the ground structure and pattern, care is needed to avoid snagging and tearing. Also, the way the textile appears sheer changes greatly depending on the light and the color of the material layered underneath.
Main Applications
It is used for blouses, dresses, skirts, dresses, and cut-and-sew items, as well as outer layers and costumes that make use of the sheer look. Because the pattern can be emphasized by layering with lining or a separate fabric, it is also suitable for panel changes, sleeves, yokes, and other partial applications.
It is often used for spring and summer because of its light look, but depending on the fabric layered underneath and the item design, it can be used regardless of season. If you want to reduce skin exposure, plan the lining, camisole, and placement of separate fabrics as part of the design.
Selection and Handling Precautions
During planning, check the strength, sheerness, stretch, and tendency of the edges to fray in the patterned areas after processing using an actual sample. Because shrinkage and texture change depending on the fabric composition and processing conditions, it is important to confirm whether pre-washing is needed before cutting, as well as dimensional changes before and after mass production.
Washing methods should follow the fabric composition and product specifications. Because washing and friction may put stress on delicate areas, using a laundry net and mild handling may be appropriate. Avoid strong pulling while wet and contact with sharp objects.
In sewing, consider in advance areas where the seam line overlaps sheer pattern sections and areas where seam finishing will be visible from the outside. Select a needle and thread suitable for lightweight fabrics, and check through test sewing for puckering, skipped stitches, and any fabric damage caused by the stitching.
Differences from Similar Terms
Discharge printing is a dyeing method that removes color from a dyed textile with chemicals or the like to create a pattern, and it is usually not a process that removes the fibers themselves. Burnout processing is characterized by dissolving specific fibers to change the thickness and sheerness of the textile.
Lace is a general term for textiles with openwork patterns made by knitting, weaving, or embroidery. Burnout processing can achieve a lace-like appearance, but it differs in that patterns are created as a post-process on fabrics made by combining different fibers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can burnout fabric be washed at home?
Whether it can be washed at home depends on the fabric composition, processing conditions, and sewing specifications. In particular, sheer areas are more easily affected by friction and snagging, so the care label on the product takes priority, and even when washing is allowed, use a laundry net and other measures to reduce stress.
What is the difference between burnout processing and discharge printing?
Discharge printing is a method of partially removing color from a dyed textile to create a pattern. By contrast, burnout processing partially removes the fibers in a blended fabric that react to chemicals, expressing a pattern not only through color difference but also through differences in sheerness and structure.
What should you watch out for when sewing burnout fabric?
Areas thinned by processing are more likely to show stitches and seam allowances, and needle holes and puckering are also more likely to occur. Check the pattern placement when cutting, do test sewing with a fine needle and suitable thread, and then decide on the seam finishing and reinforcement method.
