Circular Knitting
Circular knitting is a knitting method, or the knitted fabric itself, in which thread is continuously knit with needles arranged in a cylindrical shape, and is used for garments that take advantage of stretch and a soft hand.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Circular knitting is a method of knitting in which needles arranged in a circular shape are used to continuously produce a tube-shaped knitted fabric, or a wide fabric opened out from a tube. In general, because thread is fed in the crosswise direction to form stitches, the production method and structure of the knitted fabric differ from those of flat knitting.
Circular knitting is not a specific fabric structure name, but a general term for a knitting method and production method. Jersey, circular rib, circular interlock knitting, fleece, and moss stitch are representative knitted fabrics produced on circular knitting machines.
Features and Appearance
Because of the loop structure of the stitches, it tends to stretch more easily than woven fabric and follows body movement well. Depending on the material, thread thickness, knitting density, structure, and finishing process, it ranges from thin and lightweight to substantial and stable.
The surface has a continuous appearance of fine stitches, making it a material that easily creates a soft, casual impression. On the other hand, because the knitted fabric has different stretch and dimensional change depending on direction, both lengthwise and widthwise stretch and recovery are checked during planning.
Main Applications
It is widely used for T-shirts, cut-and-sew tops, polo shirts, sweatshirts, innerwear, undergarments, and loungewear. Taking advantage of its stretch, it is also used for sportswear, leggings, and kids' wear.
Lightweight circular knitted fabrics are suitable for spring and summer innerwear and T-shirts, while thicker knitted fabrics with fleece or fuzzing are suitable for autumn and winter sweatshirts and cold-weather clothing. However, seasonal suitability is judged not only by the knitting structure but also by the material, industry weight, and finishing.
How to Choose and Handling Notes
Depending on the application, check the structure, industry weight, blend ratio, stretch recovery, sheerness, and surface fluff. For areas where shape should be maintained, such as collars, cuffs, and hems, a different knitted fabric with stretch and rebound, such as rib knit, may be combined.
Knitted fabrics may shrink, twist, or skew due to washing or moist heat. Before mass production, it is important to carry out pre-washing or washing tests, set patterns to reflect shrinkage, and consider handling in accordance with the care label instructions.
When cutting, align the grain and handle the textile after allowing it to rest in its natural state. For sewing, choose chain stitching or overlock sewing that can follow the stretch of the textile, and use differential feed and stay tape appropriately to prevent seam stretching and waviness.
Differences from Similar Terms
Warp knitting is a method of knitting by feeding many threads in the lengthwise direction, and differs from circular knitting in thread feed direction and knitting principle. In general, warp knitted fabrics tend to be relatively stable in shape, while circular knitted fabrics tend to more easily achieve crosswise stretch.
Flat knitting mainly refers to the method of knitting on a knitting machine, piece by piece. While circular knitting produces continuous fabric, flat knitting may be used for shaped knitting such as sweaters. Jersey and circular rib are not terms that contrast with circular knitting; they are structure names often produced by circular knitting.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do circular knitting and knit fabric mean the same thing?
Knit fabric is a broad term for all knitted fabrics made by looping thread. Circular knitting refers to the method of making fabric on a circular knitting machine with needles arranged in a circular shape. Knit fabrics include not only circular knitting, but also warp knitting and flat knitting.
Does circular knitted fabric always stretch?
Many circular knitted fabrics have stretch due to their stitch structure, but the amount of stretch and recovery varies depending on the structure, density, thread, and the amount of polyurethane used. For applications that require stretch, the actual stretch recovery is checked by testing or with the finished material.
What should be noted when cutting and sewing circular knitted fabric?
Because knitted fabric stretches easily and dimensions can change during cutting and sewing, it should be stabilized sufficiently after aligning the grain before cutting. During sewing, select needles, thread, and stitches that suit the textile, and adjust feeding conditions to suppress seam stretching and puckering.
