Jersey

Definition and Overview

Jersey is a basic weft-knitted structure made by knitting mainly in the horizontal direction with a single thread. In general, the front side has rows of V-shaped stitches, and the back side shows horizontal loops, so it is a knit fabric whose front and back are easy to tell apart.

It is not a material name but the name of a knit fabric, and it is made from a wide variety of fibers such as cotton, polyester, wool, and rayon. Depending on the thickness of the thread used, knitting density, stitch gauge, and finishing, the texture can vary greatly from light to thick fabrics.

Characteristics

Jersey is more elastic than woven fabric, and is especially easy to stretch horizontally. It conforms well to body movement and makes it easy to express lightness and softness, but depending on the type of knit fabric and the material, dimensional stability may be lower.

The stitches are relatively flat, giving the fabric a casual look. Thin fabrics may be somewhat sheer or curl at the edges, while thicker fabrics have a firmer texture suited to T-shirts. In blends with polyurethane, there are also jerseys with improved stretch recovery.

• The stitch appearance differs between the front and back sides.
• The cut edges tend to curl toward the front side.
• The grain of the fabric may twist diagonally, causing skew.

Main Applications

Jersey is used for T-shirts, cut-and-sew tops, underwear, innerwear, the body of polo shirts, dresses, and more. By choosing the fiber and industry weight, it can cover a wide range from lightweight garments for spring and summer to layered items for autumn and winter.

For applications where absorbency is important, cotton-based fabrics are chosen; for applications that emphasize quick drying, polyester-based fabrics are chosen; and for applications that make use of drape, rayon-based fabrics are chosen. However, functionality and wearing comfort should be checked not only by the material itself, but also by the blend ratio, knitting density, and the combination with finishing.

How to Choose and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the composition, industry weight, thickness, sheerness, horizontal and vertical stretch, and recovery after stretching using the actual fabric. Light-colored thin jersey is prone to showing through, so for innerwear applications, consider the fabric thickness, color, and layering as needed.

When cutting, follow the grain accurately and also check for stitch distortion between the edge and center of the roll. In sewing, use needles for knits and stitches that follow stretch to prevent seam stretching and breakage. For areas that stretch easily, such as the neckline, apply stretch prevention if needed.

Washing and steam may cause shrinkage, skew, and loss of shape. Before mass production, confirm the shrinkage rate and appearance changes under the planned washing conditions and reflect them in the specifications. In particular, products with a high proportion of natural fibers require attention to dimensional changes after washing.

Differences from Similar Terms

Circular rib is a double-knit fabric with a similar rib-like appearance on both sides, and it tends to have greater stretch than jersey and less edge curling. It is also often used for attached parts that need fit, such as necklines and cuffs.

Circular interlock knitting is a double-knit fabric with a relatively similar appearance on both sides. It is easier to achieve more thickness and stability than with jersey, and edge curling is also suppressed. Jersey may refer broadly to knit fabric, but in the Japanese fabric field it is sometimes used almost synonymously with jersey.

Frequently Asked Questions

How should jersey and circular rib be used differently?

Jersey is suitable when you want lightness or a typical cut-and-sew look for the body and similar parts. Circular rib is often chosen for necklines, cuffs, hems, and other areas where greater stretch, fit, and edge stability are needed. Also check differences in composition and gauge.

Does jersey shrink when washed?

Because jersey is a knit fabric, shrinkage and skew may occur during washing. The degree varies depending on the type of fiber, knitting density, dyeing and finishing, and washing method. Before productization, it is important to test-wash the fabric and set patterns and specifications that account for shrinkage.