Heddle
A heddle is a component used on a loom to thread the warp yarns and move them up and down to create the shed. The fabric weave structure is formed by the order in which the warp yarns are threaded and the movement of the heddles.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
A heddle is a slender component used on a loom to open the warp yarns up and down. Each warp yarn is threaded one by one through the center hole, the heddle eye, and by moving the heddle frames in sequence, it creates the shed, the space through which the weft yarn passes.
In English, heddle is called a heald, and in practice it may also be called a heddle. It does not refer to a material or fabric name that makes up the woven textile, but to a loom component used in the weaving process.
Relationship to Weave Structure
The process of threading warp yarns through the desired heddles is called warp threading, and together with the order in which the heddle frames are raised and lowered, it creates the weave structure. Plain weave, twill, satin weave, and similar structures are determined by the intersection of warp and weft through warp threading and heddle movement.
As the number of heddle frames used increases, the range of structures that can be expressed expands. However, complex motifs and large patterns are also related to devices that control heddle movement, such as dobby and Jacquard.
Characteristics and Effect on Fabric
The heddle itself does not directly determine the fabric's hand, shrinkage, or washability. However, because the number, arrangement, and movement of heddles affect the weave structure, they indirectly influence the fabric's surface texture, density, drape, and breathability.
If the shape or surface condition of the heddle eye, or its compatibility with the warp yarns, is insufficient, it can lead to warp friction, damage, or uneven tension. In particular, careful control of weaving conditions is important for fine-count yarns, hairy yarns, and delicate filament yarns.
Handling and Terminology Differences
Selection and adjustment of heddles are mainly handled by the weaving mill or fabric factory. In apparel planning and production management, when changing the weave design, confirming the warp threading, number of heddle frames, and loom conditions available with the weaving side can reduce misunderstandings during mass production.
A heddle has a different role from a reed, which arranges warp yarns at a specified spacing. A reed is a component that beats in the weft yarn and sets the warp density, while a heddle is a component that raises and lowers the warp yarns to open the shed. The frame that holds and moves the heddles is called a heddle frame.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are heddle and heald the same?
In general, heddle and heald both refer to the component that threads the warp yarns and moves them up and down. However, in some workplaces the term may also include the frame that holds the heddles, so when discussing drawings or specifications, it is important to confirm whether the term refers to the component alone or to the heddle frame.
How does a larger number of heddles change the fabric?
Increasing the number of heddle frames makes it possible to set more complex warp up-and-down movements, making it easier to design structures with variations and fine repeated patterns. However, fabric thickness and hand are not determined by the number of heddles alone; they are judged together with the yarn, density, weave structure, and finishing process.
Do heddles require attention during washing or sewing?
Because heddles are not components that remain in the fabric, there are no direct precautions for product washing or sewing. Product shrinkage, ease of sewing, and washing instructions are checked based on the fabric specifications, including fiber type, weave structure, density, and dyeing and finishing processes.
