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ApparelX WikiFabric glossary

Linking

Definition

Linking is a sewing method for joining knit parts by matching the stitches of flat-knitted fabric one by one and linking them together with a dedicated machine.

Contents6 sections
  1. Definition and Overview
  2. Features and Finish
  3. Main Applications
  4. Selection and Handling Notes
  5. Differences from Similar Terms
  6. Frequently Asked Questions

Definition and Overview

Linking is a sewing process for joining knit parts, mainly flat-knit knitwear, rather than a specific type of fabric or knit structure. The edge stitches of the body, sleeves, collar, and other parts are placed onto the needles of a dedicated machine and linked together one stitch at a time in sequence.

Features and Finish

Because the stitches are matched and joined, the seam allowance is less likely to become thick and overlapping, resulting in a flat, comfortable seam. The seams also tend to follow the stretch of the knit more easily, making this a method that helps reduce pulling and bulk when worn.

On the face side, the seam is relatively inconspicuous and helps preserve the continuity of the knit fabric. However, accurate stitch picking is required. If the stitch count or stitch size does not match, it can cause puckering, waviness, or noticeable steps.

Main Applications

It is used for the shoulder seams, side seams, underarm seams, sleeve attachment, and collar attachment in sweaters, cardigans, knit vests, knit dresses, and knit polo shirts. It is especially important as a process for joining shaped-knit parts.

It is often seen in warm knitwear for fall and winter, but it is also used for lightweight knits depending on the material and gauge. It is suitable when not only the appearance of the product but also the comfort and stretch of the seams are important.

Selection and Handling Notes

For linking specifications, it is important to match the stitch density, yarn thickness, gauge, and stitch count of each part. During planning, check the stitch count and decreases at the joining points, and in prototypes confirm seam stretch, puckering, and left-right symmetry.

Shrinkage and shape changes from washing are affected not only by the linking section but by the material, knit structure, and finishing of the entire fabric. Perform washing tests before mass production to check for seam waviness, breaks, or loss of shape caused by differences in shrinkage rate.

Unlike ordinary machine sewing, linking is a method of joining by picking up knit stitches. It differs from cut-and-sew methods such as overlock or flatseam in both the type of knit fabric used and the way the seam is formed.

  • Check that there are no dropped stitches or knitting defects at the knitted edges.
  • Match the stitch count and dimensions of the parts to be joined in advance.
  • Check washing, drying, and ironing conditions for each material.
  • For areas that stretch easily, confirm the finished dimensions with worn stretch in mind.

Differences from Similar Terms

Shaped knitting is a method of knitting body panels, sleeves, and other parts close to the shape of the finished product. Linking refers to the process of joining those already knitted parts. Linking may be used in shaped-knit products, but the two terms are not synonymous.

Seamless knitwear is based on the idea of constructing the product three-dimensionally during knitting and reducing joining seams. By contrast, linking joins separate parts together, so its process position is different from seamless knitwear.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do linking and a linking machine mean the same thing?

Linking refers to the method or process of joining knit parts by matching the stitches. A linking machine is the dedicated machine used for that joining work. In practice, the work itself is sometimes called linking by the machine name, but strictly speaking the meanings are different.

Can knitwear finished with linking be washed at home?

Whether washing is possible is not determined by linking alone. It depends on the material, knit structure, and finishing process, such as wool, cotton, or synthetic fiber, so follow the product’s care label. Before washing, also check that there is no seam stretch or dropped stitches.

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