Taping
Taping is a reinforcement specification in which a narrow stretch-preventing tape is applied or sewn onto areas such as a jacket front edge or lapel edge to control stretching, distortion, and seam stretch.
Contents5 sections
Definition and Overview
Taping refers to a specification in which narrow tape is used from the front edge to the lapel edge of a tailored jacket, or to the work of applying it. It supports edge areas that tend to become unstable in the grain, suppresses stretching during sewing and wear, and helps keep the front edge neat and the lapel roll clean.
It is generally also called front-edge tape or lapel tape. Its purpose and use differ from piping, which is for decoration or edge binding, and seam tape, which prevents water from entering through seams.
Areas of Use and Role
Typical application areas are the front edge of jackets and coats, the outer edge of the lapel, and the area near the gorge line. It reduces waviness caused by stretching at the fabric edge and seam pulling, making it easier to match the shape on both sides.
The lapel is folded back when worn and is also subjected to pressure from pressing and wear. Taping helps prevent excessive stretching while maintaining the designed roll line and three-dimensional shape. It may be used as a partial reinforcement on thin or easily stretching outer fabrics that are difficult to stabilize with interlining alone.
Types by Cut Direction and Whether Adhesive Is Used
Tape is selected according to the direction in which stretching should be prevented and the curvature of the area. Straight-grain tape provides strong stabilization, while half-bias and full-bias tape are characterized by better conformity to curves and moderate flexibility.
Adhesive types can be fixed to the outer fabric or interlining by pressing, making them convenient for production. Non-adhesive types are sewn in place and are suitable for materials or tailoring methods where adhesive effects should be avoided. The stretch, thickness, and stiffness of the tape itself vary by type.
- Straight tape: suitable for stabilizing straight front edges and similar areas.
- Half-bias tape: reduces stretching while conforming to gentle curves.
- Full-bias tape: used in areas that require greater flexibility for curved shapes.
- Adhesive type: fixed by pressing.
- Non-adhesive type: fixed by sewing.
Selection and Precautions for Bonding and Sewing
The tape width is determined by the range to be reinforced, how it overlaps the seam allowance, and the thickness of the outer fabric and interlining. If the tape is too wide or too stiff, it can impair the hand of the edge; if it is too narrow, it becomes difficult to achieve the necessary stability. It is important to check the stretch of the outer fabric and the curve of the lapel.
For adhesive types, confirm the bonding conditions with a test application that includes the outer fabric and interlining. Excessive heat, pressure, or time can cause fading, bleed-through, or changes in hand, while insufficient conditions can lead to peeling or floating interlining. Adjust temperature, pressure, and time according to the material.
When sewing it in, the basic rule is not to pull the tape while attaching it. Check the front-edge design line and roll line, and process both sides under the same conditions. Before full production, confirm waviness, puckering, and lapel roll in the pressed state and in a worn simulation.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is taping the same as stretch-preventing tape?
Taping is a term that often refers to the specification or work of using stretch-preventing tape on the front edge or lapel edge. Stretch-preventing tape refers to the material itself, so it is also used in areas other than the lapel, such as shoulder seams, pocket openings, and necklines.
Should straight-grain or bias tape be chosen for a lapel?
If you want to strongly stabilize a front edge that is close to straight, straight-grain tape is a candidate. On the other hand, for curved areas such as the outer edge of the lapel, half-bias or full-bias tape, which conforms more easily to the shape, is used. Confirm the fabric stretch and the desired stiffness in a sample.
What should be considered when using adhesive tape?
It is important to conduct a test application using the outer fabric, interlining, and pressing machine together, rather than the tape alone. After bonding, check for peeling, surface fading or bleed-through, stiffness, and the fit of the curve. For products that will be washed or dry-cleaned, also confirm durability.
