Gorge Line
The gorge line is the line where the upper collar and undercollar of a tailored jacket are sewn together, and it is an important design line that affects the notch position of the collar and the appearance of the lapel.
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Definition and Overview
The gorge line is the seam line between the upper collar and undercollar in a tailored jacket. It continues from the gorge, the notch on the front side of the undercollar, to the back collar, forming the boundary between the lapel and the collar. It is an important design element that determines the collar shape and the overall impression of the jacket.
The gorge originally refers to the notch where the lapel and collar meet, or that meeting point. The gorge line, on the other hand, refers to the seam line extending from that point, so distinguishing the notch itself from the line makes specifications and pattern instructions clearer.
Areas of Use and Function
It is mainly used for front-opening garments with an undercollar and upper collar, such as tailored jackets, suits, blazers, and coats. On notch lapels, the notch appears clearly, and on peak lapels as well, it serves as a reference for balancing the connection between the upper collar and undercollar.
The height, angle, and length of the gorge line are related to the lapel width and the opening of the V-zone. In general, a higher setting tends to create a sharp, modern impression, while a lower setting tends to create a calmer impression, so harmony with the overall design should be checked.
Relationship to Materials and Tailoring
The gorge line is a term related to collar structure and sewing, not to the type of fabric. In addition to the outer fabric, interfacing materials such as under collar felt, haircloth interlining, and fusible interlining are combined to maintain the collar shape, and the specifications are adjusted according to the thickness, firmness, and stretch of the material.
The grain direction and bias direction may differ between the upper collar and undercollar, changing how easily they stretch during stitching. Especially with soft fabrics, thick fabrics, and fabrics with nap, the choice of interfacing, easing, and pressing to shape the fabric affect the natural roll of the collar.
- A firm outer fabric makes the line stand out more easily, and the angle and stitching are more noticeable.
- For a soft outer fabric with good drape, the firmness of the interfacing is considered with the collar roll given priority.
- With patterned fabrics, check whether the direction of the pattern and any left-right difference are noticeable near the gorge.
Sewing Considerations
Because the gorge line directly affects how the collar appears, the left and right gorge positions, notch angle, and lapel width must be matched. It is also a place where seam allowance thickness tends to gather, so seam allowances should be trimmed and notched appropriately to prevent bulk and show-through on the outside.
After sewing, check that the gorge does not open unnaturally when the lapel is turned, and that the seam between the upper collar and undercollar does not ripple. During pressing, it is important not to flatten the seam too much, and to shape it while preserving the collar roll and break line.
Differences from Similar Terms
Gorge generally refers to the notch between the lapel and collar, or the point where they meet. The gorge line is the seam line between the upper collar and undercollar that continues from there toward the back collar. In conversation, the two are sometimes used with the same meaning, but when giving specifications, the position and the line should be distinguished.
Under collar felt is a type of interfacing used on the inside of the collar and is not the gorge line itself. The difference is that under collar felt supports collar shape retention, while the gorge line indicates the joining position and design line that make up the collar.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is used as the reference point for checking the height of the gorge line?
In general, the position of the gorge where the lapel and upper collar meet is checked in relation to the neckline, shoulder line, and chest pocket. Rather than judging by a single measurement alone, it is important to check the lapel width, depth of the V-zone, and balance when worn comprehensively on a dress form or during fitting.
What is the relationship between the gorge line and under collar felt?
The gorge line is the seam line between the upper collar and undercollar, while under collar felt is the interfacing that supports the shape on the inside of the collar. The firmness and placement of under collar felt affect the fit around the gorge, the collar roll, and seam show-through, so it is selected according to the thickness of the outer fabric and the design.
