Yarn Count
Yarn count is a general term for units and notation methods used to indicate thread thickness, and the relationship between the number and thread thickness differs depending on the measurement system used.
Definition and Overview
Yarn count is an indicator of yarn thickness, especially for spun yarns. In fixed-weight systems such as cotton count, it is expressed by yarn length per a fixed weight, so a higher number indicates a finer yarn.
The way yarn count is written varies by material, producing region, and trade custom. Therefore, you cannot directly compare the thickness of yarns from different systems based only on the yarn count number.
- Single yarn is written as "30 count".
- Plied yarn may be written as "30/2", showing the count of the original single yarn and the number of plies twisted together.
- For filament yarns made from chemical fibers, denier and tex are often used.
Characteristics Seen in Fabric
In general, if the material, weave, and density are the same, using finer-count yarns makes the fabric more delicate and smooth in appearance, and easier to design as a lightweight fabric. With coarser-count yarns, the yarn presence, rustic feel, and sturdy impression become more noticeable.
However, fabric thickness, weight, strength, and sheerness are not determined by yarn count alone. The final texture is shaped by a combination of the weave or knit structure, the number of warp and weft yarns, twist, raw materials, and finishing processes.
Main Applications
Fine-count yarns are used for shirt fabrics, blouse fabrics, and lightweight apparel fabrics such as broadcloth, lawn, and voile. They are also used in designs that aim for a neat surface even while keeping the fabric thin through high-density weaving.
Coarse-count yarns are used for fabrics for casual wear, pants, workwear, and bags, such as canvas, denim, and twill. They are suitable when a firm appearance that makes the most of the yarn thickness is desired.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting fabric, check the yarn count together with the material, single or plied yarn, structure, density, and industry weight. For example, even with the same yarn count, stretch, drape, and surface feel change depending on whether the yarn is high-twist, the amount of fuzz, and the yarn count combination in the warp and weft.
In sewing, thin fabrics with fine-count yarns require attention to needle holes, seam shrinkage, and puckering. For thick fabrics with coarse-count yarns, confirm in advance the thickness at overlapped areas and the choice of needle and thread. Shrinkage after washing should be evaluated based on the material, processing, and fabric specifications, not on yarn count alone.
- In planning documents, clearly state the yarn-count measurement system and whether it is single yarn or plied yarn.
- During prototyping, check thickness, sheerness, and sewability with a fabric sample.
- When comparing yarn counts for different materials, also confirm the display system such as denier or tex.
Differences from Similar Terms
Denier is a fixed-length unit that expresses yarn thickness by mass per a certain length. In denier, a larger number means a thicker yarn. By contrast, in fixed-weight systems such as cotton count, a larger number generally means a finer yarn.
Single yarn and plied yarn are terms related to the number of strands that make up the yarn. While yarn count indicates yarn thickness, single yarn and plied yarn indicate yarn structure. Plied yarn tends to have a smoother surface and is easier to give strength and stability than single yarn.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a larger yarn count number mean a finer yarn?
In fixed-weight systems such as cotton count and English count, a larger number generally means a finer yarn. However, denier and tex are fixed-length systems in which a larger number means a thicker yarn. You need to check the measurement system shown before comparing.
What does the 30/2 yarn-count notation mean?
30/2 is a common notation indicating a plied yarn made by twisting together two 30-count single yarns. The thickness of the finished plied yarn is different from that of a 30-count single yarn. Since properties also change depending on twist and raw materials, it is important not to judge fabric thickness by yarn count notation alone.
Can fabric thickness or industry weight be understood from yarn count alone?
No, it cannot. Even with the same yarn count, thickness and industry weight vary greatly depending on the weave structure, density, warp and weft combination, twist, and finishing. Check the industry weight and density in the fabric specification sheet, and if possible, confirm the texture and sewability with the actual fabric.
