Arimatsu Shibori

Definition and Production Area

Arimatsu shibori refers to the production area of shibori dyeing centered in the Arimatsu and Narumi area of Nagoya City, Aichi Prefecture, as well as its products and techniques. It is also called Arimatsu-Narumi shibori or Narumi shibori. It creates resist-dyed patterns after dyeing by tying parts of the fabric with thread, stitching it tightly, or clamping it between boards.

Shibori dyeing is a general term for dyeing techniques, and Arimatsu shibori is one that developed in close connection with the local area. It is not a material name or a weave structure name, so the name Arimatsu shibori alone does not specify the material such as cotton or silk, the weave, thickness, or applications.

History and Technical Features

Arimatsu and Narumi developed along the Tokaido road and became known for shibori-dyed fabric used in travel clothing. It is characterized by being based on handwork, with a wide variety of patterns cultivated through processes and division of labor.

Representative techniques include Kanoko shibori, which creates bead-like patterns by tightly tying with thread; stitched shibori, which tightens the fabric by sewing it; and board clamping, which sandwiches the fabric between boards. Even with the same technique name, the outline and texture of the pattern change depending on the tying method, dye, and material.

• Tying: a method of strongly binding the fabric with thread or similar material to create areas where dye does not penetrate easily.
• Stitched tightening: a method of sewing the fabric and tightening the thread to create line and surface patterns.
• Board clamping: a method of sandwiching folded fabric between boards and using pressure to resist dyeing.

Typical Fabrics and Applications

Traditionally, it has been used for cotton and silk kimono lengths, and made into yukata, kimono, obiage, and more. Today, it is processed into a variety of base fabrics according to application, including thin cotton fabrics and silk fabrics, and is also used for apparel, fashion accessories, and interior accessories.

The raised and recessed texture created by shibori affects not only appearance but also the hand feel and how the fabric sits against the skin. On the other hand, the degree of texture, the size of the pattern, and the difference between ground color and pattern color can vary from piece to piece or lot to lot, so it is important to share in advance the acceptable range as a product design requirement.

Points to Check When Purchasing

If regional origin is important, confirm which processes were carried out on the fabric in the Arimatsu and Narumi area. In some cases, the term may refer only to the shibori process, while in others it may indicate the full range from base fabric, tying, dyeing, to finishing, so it is important not to judge only from the label Arimatsu shibori.

For fabrics involving manual work, producible quantity, minimum lot size, whether additional production is possible, and lead time affect planning conditions. Before mass production, confirm the pattern dimensions, texture, color difference, width, and fabric consumption with a sample, and record acceptable tolerances versus the mass-production lot in the specification sheet.

Shrinkage, color fading or transfer, and changes in texture during washing and wear vary depending on the base fabric, dyeing method, and post-processing. Provide the intended care-label assumptions according to the product application, and confirm the required colorfastness test and washing test conditions with the supplier.

• Target processes for origin labeling and traceability
• Material, weave, fabric width, fabric weight, and dimensions before and after dyeing of the base fabric
• Minimum lot size, whether sample production is possible, and lead times for mass production and additional production
• Individual variation in pattern, color, and texture, and acceptable standards during inspection

Differences from Similar Terms

Shibori dyeing refers to all dyeing techniques that create patterns by resist-dyeing through tying, stitching, and similar methods. Arimatsu shibori is the name for the production area and technique among shibori dyeing that developed in the Arimatsu and Narumi area. Therefore, not all shibori-dyed fabrics are Arimatsu shibori.

Kanoko shibori is a specific technique that creates a Kanoko-like beaded pattern by tying small sections tightly. Arimatsu shibori includes many techniques besides Kanoko shibori. Printing, meanwhile, is a method of applying pigments or dyes to the surface of fabric using screens or similar tools, and differs in process and appearance from shibori dyeing, which tightens the fabric to create different dyed areas.

Frequently Asked Questions