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ApparelX WikiButton glossary

Three-roll-two

Definition

Three-roll-two is a tailoring style mainly used on tailored jackets, with three front buttons and the top button hidden in the lapel roll, so it is usually fastened with the middle and lower two buttons.

Contents6 sections
  1. Definition and Overview
  2. Button and Buttonhole Structure
  3. Size Notation and Main Applications
  4. Sewing and Handling Notes
  5. Differences from Similar Terms
  6. Frequently Asked Questions

Definition and Overview

Three-roll-two is a button arrangement and lapel roll specification used on single-breasted tailored jackets. The front body has three buttons, but the top button is positioned inside the lapel roll line and is not easily visible from the outside.

In English, it is called roll-two-two or three-roll-two. While it has three buttonholes, it is usually fastened with the center button when worn, making it a specification that achieves both the look of a two-button jacket and the long, vertical balance characteristic of a three-button jacket.

Button and Buttonhole Structure

Three-roll-two does not refer to the type or material of the buttons. For that reason, either two-hole buttons, four-hole buttons, or shank buttons can be used, and materials such as resin, shell, water buffalo horn, and metal are selected according to the fabric thickness, intended use, and design.

Although a button and buttonhole are often also attached at the top, the position is hidden by the lapel roll, so check the appearance of the buttonhole stitching and button attachment as well. It is important to set the upper button position, gorge line, and interfacing design so that the lapel rolls naturally.

  • Front buttons are generally three.
  • Normally, the center button is fastened, and the lower button is left unfastened.
  • The top button is inside the lapel roll and may appear decorative.

Size Notation and Main Applications

Three-roll-two itself does not have a specific button size. Button diameter is specified in lignes or mm, and is matched to the fabric thickness, front placket width, buttonhole length, and overall balance. Lignes is a unit expressing button diameter, and when ordering materials, it is necessary to confirm the correspondence with mm notation.

Main applications are men's tailored jackets, suit jackets, and blazers. It is also used for casual jackets. In three-roll-two, the lapel roll affects the appearance, so the specification should be considered not only in terms of the button itself, but also together with the collar shape and the structure of the front body.

Sewing and Handling Notes

In sewing, clearly define the button position and buttonhole position in the pattern and specification sheet, and check whether the lapel properly hides the top button in the fitting state. If the top button is too visible from the outside or the lapel floats unnaturally, review the button position, roll line, and interfacing design.

Resistance to washing, dry cleaning, and ironing differs depending on the button material used and the fabric, not on three-roll-two. Because heat or chemicals may cause cracking, discoloration, or surface deterioration, check the product care label and the button handling conditions, and avoid pressing the iron directly against the buttons.

Differences from Similar Terms

A three-button jacket is a broader term that includes jackets in which all three buttons are visible outside the lapel and where the top button can also be fastened. By contrast, three-roll-two is characterized by the upper button being hidden by the lapel roll.

A two-button jacket has two front buttons, whereas three-roll-two has three buttons. In addition, functioning sleeve buttonholes are a specification that allows the cuff buttonholes to open and close for real, and is a tailoring term separate from three-roll-two, which describes the lapel and button arrangement on the front body.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can the top button on a three-roll-two be fastened?

Because the top button is inside the lapel roll, it is usually worn unfastened. Forcing it to fasten may ruin the lapel roll or cause pulling in the front body. However, depending on the design, it may be fastened, so check the product specifications.

Are there fixed sizes or hole counts for buttons for three-roll-two?

There is no dedicated size, number of lignes, or number of holes for three-roll-two. The button diameter on the front body is determined by balancing the fabric thickness and the design, and is selected from two-hole, four-hole, shank, and similar types. The length of the buttonhole, the thickness of the button, and ease of fastening and unfastening also need to be checked.

Is three-roll-two the same as a three-button jacket?

Three-roll-two is a type of three-button jacket, but they are not synonymous. A three-button jacket refers to the number of buttons, whereas three-roll-two refers to the specific tailoring specification in which the top button is hidden by the lapel roll and the jacket is mainly fastened with the center button.

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