First Sample

Definition and position in the process

A first sample is the first prototype sewn based on the design drawing, specifications, and pattern to verify the product plan as a concrete garment. It confirms whether the planning intent can be reproduced with the actual materials, trims, and sewing.

In general, after the first sample is checked, a sample reflecting revision instructions is created and the process moves on to approval before mass production. However, the process name, number of sample iterations, and approval sequence vary depending on the brand and production system.

Main items to check

The check covers not only the appearance of the design, but also the balance when worn, range of motion, ease of sewing, and compatibility between the material and trims. Identifying problems early helps reduce rework and quality variation during mass production.

• Dimensions, silhouette, left-right difference, and notch positions as specified by the pattern
• The shape of each part, such as the collar, sleeves, and pockets, and how it sits when worn
• Sewing specifications such as seam finishing, stitch width, and sewing sequence
• Whether the specifications are appropriate, taking into account the fabric's stretch, thickness, sheerness, and shrinkage
• The function and appearance of trims such as buttons, zippers, interlining, and labels

Practical points for ordering and progress

When requesting a sample, prepare the specifications, pattern, measurement chart, trim instructions, and fabric information, and distinguish between confirmed items and provisional items. If the criteria needed to judge revisions are insufficient, differences in interpretation are likely to arise between makers.

For revisions during checking, link photos, diagrams, and comments so the instructed areas are clear. Classify revision details into design changes, pattern revisions, sewing specification changes, and trim changes, and clearly share the latest control number and update date.

If the fabric or trims planned for mass production differ from the materials used for the sample, the texture, color, thickness, shrinkage rate, and sewing performance may change. Record the status of confirmation for the materials to be used in mass production, and the items to recheck when they are replaced.

Quality and approval precautions

If issues found in the first sample are handled only verbally, information may be lost in the next process. It is important to record revision instructions, approval conditions, and pending items, and reliably reflect them in the pattern, specifications, and trim list.

Even if a sample is approved, it does not necessarily guarantee the quality of mass production as is. In mass production, cutting, the sewing line, material lots, and processing conditions change, so dimensions, appearance, and specifications should also be checked in pre-production samples and early mass-produced items.

Differences from similar terms

A toile refers to a mock-up for basting, mainly used to examine silhouette and pattern. A first sample differs in that it uses fabric, trims, and sewing specifications close to the actual product to confirm the viability of the overall plan.

A PP sample is a prototype used to check the finished result under mass-production conditions before production, and a TOP sample is often used to refer to a sample taken from mass-produced items for checking. A first sample is positioned earlier, for planning verification.

A sales sample is a sample used to obtain orders at exhibitions or in sales activities. It may be made based on a first sample, but its purpose is not to verify product specifications; it is for presentation at the time of sale.

Frequently asked questions