Kihachijo
Kihachijo is a textile passed down on Hachijo Island in Tokyo, mainly handwoven from silk yarn dyed with plant-based dyes made from the island’s vegetation, and expressed in a base of yellow, brown, and black.
Contents5 sections
Definition and place of origin
Kihachijo is a silk textile produced on Hachijo Island in Tokyo. It expresses its colors and patterns through yarn-dyed weaving, using dyes made from plants and other materials that grow naturally or are cultivated on the island. The name ki comes from its representative color, but it does not refer only to yellow textiles.
At the same time, it is used as a term for the island’s dyeing and weaving techniques and products. Because the fabric structure, pattern, and color tone vary from piece to piece, Kihachijo is distinguished from a specific weave name or simply a term for yellow fabric.
Colors and dyeing and weaving techniques
The representative colors are yellow, brown, and black. Yellow is expressed with kogunagusa, brown with madami, and black with sudajii, using plants from the island. Because plant dyeing changes in tone depending on conditions such as the harvest time of the dye material, the dye bath, and mordanting, it creates a depth that differs from uniform industrial dyeing.
Since the yarn is dyed before weaving, patterns such as stripes, checks, and kasuri can be created through weaving. Because there are many handwork processes, the same color combination can look and feel different depending on the yarn dyeing layers and weaving density.
Typical fabric and applications
Kihachijo is made mainly from silk and woven in plain weave or twill weave. Some types combine suppleness with moderate firmness, and the deep expression created by intersecting colored yarns is a defining feature. Lightness, luster, and drape vary depending on the weave structure and yarn thickness.
In addition to being used for kimono fabric, it is also used for obi, haori, bags, and fashion accessories. When adopting it for modern products, it is important to check not only traditional applications, but also the fabric width, required yardage, and the thickness and drape suitable for sewing specifications.
- Plain weave is a structure that tends to create a relatively clean and neat appearance.
- Twill weave shows diagonal ridges, and the appearance of the color changes depending on how the light hits it.
- Kasuri is a technique that creates patterns with dyed yarns, and has a distinctive blurred appearance.
Points to check when sourcing
The labels “Kihachijo” and “Honba Kihachijo” do not guarantee the place of origin, production method, material, or whether certification paper is included, all by the same meaning. When using the place-of-origin name in a specification sheet or label, it is important to confirm the place of origin, production process, material blend ratio, and labeling conditions with the supplier.
Handwoven and plant-dyed fabrics are more likely than mass-produced fabrics to show individual differences in color tone and pattern placement, and the conditions for continuous production also change. Before placing an order, confirm the color, acceptable range of weaving defects, and roll length with an actual sample, and consult early about whether additional production is possible and the delivery schedule.
- Order unit, minimum lot size, roll length, and usable width
- Color differences between dye lots, pattern reproducibility, and pattern direction
- Method for comparing samples and mass-produced goods, and inspection standards
- Lead time for additional orders and whether the same color can be continued
Frequently asked questions
Does Kihachijo refer only to yellow solid fabric?
No. Kihachijo is the name for dyed and woven goods from Hachijo Island, and in addition to yellow, brown and black are also representative colors. There are also patterns such as stripes, checks, and kasuri, and the appearance differs depending on the color combination, weave structure, and how the yarn is dyed. When ordering, check with an actual sample, not only by the color name.
What should be noted when using Kihachijo in apparel products?
If the fabric width is narrow as is typical for kimono use, it will affect yardage and cutting efficiency for garments. Also, because of the characteristics of plant dyeing and handweaving, differences in color tone, weave density, and pattern placement may occur from piece to piece. Before mass production, confirm the roll width, shrinkage rate, colorfastness, and conditions for additional production, and reflect them in the specifications.
