Leno Selvedge
Leno selvedge is a selvedge structure formed at both ends of a woven fabric by twisting the warp yarns together to secure the weft yarns and prevent fraying and weft slippage.
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Definition and Overview
Leno selvedge is a type of selvedge at both edges of a fabric. Using the leno weave principle, which traps the weft yarn by crossing adjacent warp yarns, it prevents the weft from pulling out at the woven edge.
It does not mean the entire fabric is woven in leno weave; it refers to a specification used partially, mainly at the edges. Since the selvedge is often cut off after cutting, it may not appear as part of the product’s surface design.
Features
Because the warp yarn firmly holds the weft, the edge is less likely to fray, and it helps reduce the risk of weft pullout during handling from weaving through processing, inspection, and cutting.
Since the interlacing differs from the regular ground weave, the selvedge may look looser than the body of the fabric or feel slightly stiffer. Appearance and hand feel vary depending on the material, yarn thickness, and density.
Main Applications
Leno selvedge is used to stabilize fabric edges, from lightweight to medium-weight woven fabrics, especially fabrics in which the weft is prone to shifting. It is a specification intended to maintain shape until the fabric is removed from the loom and to improve handling in downstream processes.
In apparel, it may be seen on fabrics used for shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, and similar items, but leno selvedge itself is not a term that indicates a specific item or season. When the selvedge is left visible, it may also be used as a design feature at the edge.
Selection and Handling Notes
When selecting fabric, check not only whether it has leno selvedge but also the effective width, the stiffness of the fabric edge, and the density difference near the selvedge using the actual material. If the selvedge is included in cutting, differences in hand feel and stretch from the body of the fabric may affect the finished garment.
Normally, the selvedge is avoided during cutting. If the selvedge is intentionally shown, test for shrinkage after washing or wet finishing, edge waviness, and seam allowance thickness in advance. During sewing, adjust needle and thread tension according to the stiffness of the selvedge to prevent puckering.
Differences from Similar Terms
Selvedge is a general term for the edge at both sides of a woven fabric, while leno selvedge is the specific structure or specification used to create that selvedge. Leno weave, on the other hand, is a woven structure in which warp yarns are crossed to create sheerness and prevent yarn slippage, and it may be used across the entire fabric.
Selvedge on selvedge denim often refers to a distinctive edge formed on older looms, and it is not the same as leno selvedge. Both terms relate to fabric edges, but their formation methods and uses differ.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can leno selvedge be used when cutting?
In general, the selvedge is treated as outside the effective width and is excluded from cutting. This is because its structure and stiffness may differ from the body of the fabric. If it is used as part of the design, conduct a sewing test in advance, including shrinkage, waviness, and seam allowance thickness.
What is the difference between leno selvedge and leno weave?
Leno weave is the woven structure itself, in which warp yarns are crossed to secure the weft. Leno selvedge refers to the selvedge specification that applies that principle mainly at the fabric edge to prevent weft pullout and fraying. The main difference is whether it is the structure of the entire fabric or a specification for the edge.
