Skip Number
Skip number is the numerical value that indicates the interval at which neighboring warp or weft interlacings are shifted in a weave diagram such as satin.
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Definition and Overview
Skip number is a design value used in woven structures that distribute interlacings regularly, such as satin weave. On a weave draft, it indicates how many ends or picks the next interlacing is shifted by. It is also called the floating number.
It is not the value obtained by dividing the number of yarns in the complete weave by the number of interlacings, but a value that determines the positional relationship of the interlacings. Skip numbers are set in combinations that are not evenly divisible by the number of yarns in the complete weave so that the interlacings are not concentrated in one area.
Role in Satin Weave
In satin weave, the warp or weft floats over the surface for a long distance, creating smoothness and a lustrous appearance. Skip number affects how the interlacings are arranged and is related to the diagonal flow seen on the surface and the dispersion of the interlacings.
However, skip number alone does not determine floating yarn length, luster, thickness, or strength. The size of the complete weave, yarn type and thickness, density, weaving conditions, and finishing must all be considered together.
Effect on Hand and Appearance
A satin weave with properly dispersed interlacings has fewer noticeable crossing points on the surface and tends to appear as a continuous face. With yarns that reflect light easily, such as filament yarn, the woven luster is especially noticeable.
On the other hand, structures with long floats may be more prone to snagging and yarn displacement caused by friction. Skip number is a design element, and durability should be judged by the material, density, and overall structure.
Selection and Handling Precautions
When selecting fabric, do not decide its application based only on the skip number; check the front and back appearance, drape, and resistance to friction through swatches or prototypes. Fabrics with prominent surface floats require caution in applications with continuous friction, such as bag openings or chairs.
Changes in shrinkage and hand after washing are affected not by the skip number but by fiber type, yarn, dyeing and finishing, and washing conditions. In sewing, adjust the needle and presser foot condition so the floating yarns are not caught, and perform seam testing if necessary.
Differences from Similar Terms
Skip number is a term that indicates the shift interval of interlacings in satin weave and similar structures, not a term that indicates fabric density or yarn thickness. Floating yarn refers to the yarn itself that appears on the surface without interlacing over a certain distance within the structure.
Satin weave is one of the three basic weaves and is a typical example of using skip numbers to design interlacings. Twill weave also has diagonal twill lines, but its interlacing structure and surface appearance differ from satin weave, which disperses interlacings by using skip numbers.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a larger skip number mean longer floating yarns?
Not necessarily. The length of the floating yarn is determined by the overall structure, including the number of yarns in the complete weave and the placement of the interlacings. Since skip number mainly indicates the interval for moving the interlacing to the next position, it is important not to judge float length or strength from the number alone.
What is the difference between skip number and density?
Skip number is a design value that indicates the interval at which interlacings move on the weave draft. Density, by contrast, indicates the number of warp or weft yarns per unit length. Skip number relates to the weave construction, while density relates to how tightly the yarns are packed, so both are checked when considering applications and hand feel.
