Schiffli Embroidery

Definition and Overview

Schiffli embroidery is a technique in which continuous patterns are embroidered onto a wide base fabric using a Schiffli embroidery machine, or the embroidered fabric produced by that process. It can express floral and geometric patterns, and it uses not only the embroidered parts but also the sheerness of the base fabric as part of the design.

In Japan, it may also be called Schiffli lace or Swiss embroidery. However, the scope of the term varies depending on the trading partner and the fabric specifications, and it may refer to both embroidered-only fabrics and fabrics with openwork patterns.

How It Is Made and Materials

The base fabric is set on a multi-needle embroidery machine, and the pattern is formed with embroidery thread. In specifications with openwork sections, the edges may be reinforced by embroidery before the interior is cut out; this is called cutwork.

Cotton, polyester, nylon, and similar materials are used for the base fabric, while rayon and polyester are used for the embroidery thread. Depending on the structure of the base fabric, the amount of yarn, and the embroidery density, the transparency, body, weight, and three-dimensional appearance of the pattern can change significantly.

Appearance Characteristics

Its defining feature is the combination of the clear outline created by the embroidery thread and the lightness of the ground structure. Items with openwork patterns reveal the skin or underlayer, making the shading of the pattern stand out. When the embroidery density is high, the fabric gives a more ornate and substantial impression.

Unlike lace that forms patterns only with yarn, such as Leavers lace, Schiffli embroidery is basically made by embroidering on a base fabric. Also, while raschel lace is made on a knitting machine to create lace fabric, Schiffli embroidery adds design through embroidery processing.

Main Applications

It is used for bodices, sleeves, hems, and similar parts of blouses, dresses, skirts, and gowns. In addition to using it in selected areas to take advantage of its sheerness and pattern, it can also be layered with lining or a separate fabric to make the embroidered pattern stand out.

Thin, sheer product numbers are suited to spring and summer garments and layered designs. On the other hand, items with a large embroidery amount and a stable base fabric are also used for formal wear and costumes that emphasize decoration.

Selection and Handling Notes

When selecting, check the blend ratio of the base fabric and embroidery thread, the weight of the fabric including the embroidered sections, the sheerness, the direction of the pattern, and the usable width. For stretchable base fabrics, also check for pulling or distortion caused by differences in stretch between the embroidery and the ground fabric, and inspect the material before cutting after unrolling it.

When cutting, confirm the placement of large patterns and left-right symmetry, and pay attention to areas where openwork sections or embroidery edges fall on seam allowances. During sewing, choose a fine needle and thread suitable for the fabric, and if necessary use thin paper or a water-soluble backing to reduce feed-related stretching and puckering.

At embroidery edges and around cutwork, strong friction or catching may cause the thread to break or fray. Always wash according to the product care label, and choose a method suited to the fabric specifications, such as using a laundry net, gentle machine action or hand washing, and drying in the shade after reshaping.

• For specifications where the pattern edges are cut clean, consider anti-fray measures and seam allowance finishing methods in advance.
• The dyeability of the embroidery thread and base fabric may differ, so check wash fastness for dark-colored items and color combinations.
• For ironing, use a pressing cloth from the reverse side and start at a low temperature so as not to flatten the three-dimensional effect of the embroidery.

Frequently Asked Questions