Selvage Distortion
Selvage distortion is a quality phenomenon in woven fabric where the selvage shrinks or stretches more than the center, causing puckering or waviness across the fabric width.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Selvage distortion is a condition in which, due to differences in tension or shrinkage between the selvages at both edges of a woven fabric and the ground weave, the edge area is pulled inward or, conversely, becomes slack and wavy. When the bolt is laid flat, a pulled appearance may be seen from the selvage toward the center.
It is affected by the tension of selvage yarns during weaving, weft insertion, and the tension and shrinkage during dyeing and finishing. It is not a weave name or material name of the fabric itself, but a quality phenomenon related to the fabric’s appearance, dimensional stability, and cutting suitability.
Characteristics and Effect on Appearance
When the selvage area is excessively taut, the fabric edge shrinks and horizontal pulling or wrinkling appears in the center area. A condition in which the selvage area is slack may also be called selvage distortion, and the edge may sag and appear wavy.
Selvage distortion in fabric used as a garment outer fabric is not an intended finish for texture or appearance. It can lead to issues such as parts becoming distorted after cutting, seams wavering after sewing, or difficulty matching patterns or grain.
- Spread out the bolt and check for waviness or pulling when it is laid flat, including the selvages.
- Shining light from an angle makes it easier to spot wrinkles entering from the selvage edge and differences in tension.
- It may appear on only one selvage, so check both sides.
Main Uses and Effect on Cutting
Selvage distortion is not a characteristic suitable for specific items or seasons; it is a quality condition that must be checked in all products using woven fabric, such as shirts, blouses, jackets, pants, and skirts. Its impact is especially important in large flat parts and products that require pattern matching.
Usually, the selvage itself is excluded during cutting. However, if the effect of selvage distortion extends beyond the selvage edge into the interior of the fabric, the usable width becomes narrower. When considering fabric consumption and marking, check the usable range for each bolt.
Selection and Handling Notes
When receiving bolts, inspect the appearance with the fabric relaxed after opening and removing tension. If necessary, straighten the fabric before cutting and adjust the grain, but depending on the degree of selvage distortion, straightening alone may not be sufficient to improve it.
Because shrinkage differences may become more apparent after washing or steaming, carry out washing and sewing tests according to the material and product specifications before mass production. Check the width, waviness, and presence of puckering after wetting, and reflect the results in the cutting width and sewing conditions.
During sewing, it is important not to force a pulled edge to the point of sewing it in. Adjust differential feed, presser pressure, and thread tension to suit the fabric, and review the cutting position for parts affected by the selvage edge.
Differences from Similar Terms
Selvage refers to the non-fraying edge itself at both sides of a woven fabric. Selvage distortion refers to the pulling or slackness caused by the difference in condition between that selvage and the ground weave, so it is distinguished from the name of the selvage itself.
Puckering is wrinkling or waviness that occurs mainly around seams. Selvage distortion, on the other hand, can be seen even in the bolt stage before sewing, and is a phenomenon in which the effect originating from the selvage extends to the fabric surface. Skew refers to a condition in which the warp and weft of the fabric are shifted from a right angle, and it differs from selvage distortion in how it occurs.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can fabric with selvage distortion be used?
If it is limited to the selvage edge and the inside of the usable width is flat after straightening, it may be usable after excluding the selvage. However, if the pulling or waviness extends to the product parts, it will affect dimensions and appearance. Record the range during inspection and determine whether it can be cut.
Can selvage distortion be corrected by washing?
Washing or steaming may relax the tension and change how it looks, but it does not always improve. In fact, the difference in shrinkage between the selvage and the center may become more apparent. It is important to test under the actual washing conditions before mass production and confirm the condition after drying as well.
How do you distinguish selvage distortion from puckering?
Selvage distortion is pulling or slackness visible on the fabric surface from the selvage edge of the bolt, and it can be checked before sewing. Puckering is waviness that occurs mainly around seams due to sewing thread, sewing conditions, and differences in the fabrics being joined. The location of inspection and the stage at which it occurs are different.
