Tricot

Definition and Overview

Tricot is a type of warp knitting that simultaneously knits multiple threads arranged in the warp direction. Unlike weft knitting, which moves yarns back and forth horizontally, it is less likely to unravel and tends to form a relatively stable knitted fabric.

In general, fine vertical ribs are visible on the front side, and threads running horizontally are visible on the back side. It can be combined with materials suited to the intended application, mainly polyester and nylon, as well as rayon, Cupro, and blends with polyurethane.

Features

It can be made in a wide range from lightweight to medium-weight and is a knitted fabric that readily expresses a smooth, refined surface. Depending on the structure, yarn thickness, sheen, and processing such as fuzzy or mesh finishes, its hand feel, including drape, breathability, and warmth retention, changes greatly.

Compared with cut-and-sew fabrics made by weft knitting, it generally suppresses stretch and shape distortion more easily, while elasticity varies depending on the structure and blended fibers. A 2-way type with interknitted polyurethane is used as a material that stretches both vertically and horizontally.

• Stitches are less likely to ladder or run, and the edges tend not to curl.
• When filament yarn is used, it is easier to create smoothness and sheen.
• Mesh structures make use of lightness and breathability.

Main Applications

It is used for clothing linings, lingerie, and innerwear, taking advantage of its smoothness and thinness. In addition, items with added water absorption and quick-drying properties or stretchability are also used for sportswear, swimwear, uniforms, and outdoor apparel.

Its fine surface also makes it suitable for printed base fabrics, reinforcement uses close to interlinings, and some bedding and interior applications. When deciding on an application, it is important to check not only the knit structure name but also the blend ratio, industry weight, elongation rate, and finishing process.

Selection and Handling Notes

For linings, check the slip against the outer fabric, tendency to build static, sheerness, and durability. For sports uses, select the required directional stretch, rebound, breathability, and abrasion resistance according to the actual sewing specifications and wearing conditions.

If the grain line of the knitted fabric is skewed during cutting, it may lead to twisting or a distorted appearance after sewing. Before cutting, align the vertical stitches, and handle easily stretchable materials without pulling them excessively. To prevent needle holes, stitch slippage, and seam puckering, adjust the needle, thread, and feed conditions through sample stitching.

Changes in dimensions due to washing, deformation due to heat, and the degree of color fading or color transfer vary depending on the fiber type and processing. Before mass production, washing and sewing tests are necessary, and the washing instructions and the fabric maker's handling conditions must be followed.

Differences from Similar Terms

Jersey, circular rib, and circular interlock knitting are knits classified mainly as weft knits. Because these are knitted horizontally with one or more yarns, their knitting method, stretch behavior, and stitch appearance differ from tricot.

"Warp knitting" is the broad category name for knitted fabrics that includes tricot. In addition to tricot, warp knitting also includes raschel, and even within warp knitting, mesh size, thickness, elasticity, and applications differ depending on the structure.

Frequently Asked Questions

In which direction does tricot stretch?

The way it stretches depends on the structure, yarn usage, and whether polyurethane is included. A typical tricot tends to stretch less and be more stable than weft knits, but 2-way types and the like stretch greatly both vertically and horizontally. Please check the elongation rate and recovery needed for the intended application.

Can tricot be used for linings?

Tricot is used for linings by taking advantage of its thinness, smoothness, and stability as a knitted fabric. However, slip against the outer fabric, static electricity, sheerness, and durability vary depending on the material and finish. It is also reassuring to check compatibility when layered with the outer fabric, as well as snagging at the seams.

Are tricot and mesh the same?

No, they are not the same. Tricot is the name of a warp-knit structure or knitted fabric, while mesh refers to a structure with an open, breathable appearance. Some fabrics are made into a mesh-like form through tricot knitting, so both names may be listed together.