Right-hand Twill And Left-hand Twill

Definition and How to Distinguish Them

Right-hand twill and left-hand twill are terms used to describe the direction of the twill line—the diagonal ridge created by the offset of weave points in a twill weave, where warp and weft cross at regular intervals. With the front side of the textile facing you, a twill line that slopes up to the right is called right-hand twill, and one that slopes up to the left is called left-hand twill.

However, if the textile is turned over or rotated top to bottom, the visible direction will reverse. For that reason, in specifications and inspection, it is important to align the front and back and the top and bottom of the textile before checking the twill direction, and to give instructions using the same standard as the sample.

Texture and Visual Characteristics

The direction of the twill line gives the textile surface movement and shading, creating character even in solid textiles. In textiles made with thick thread, thread with color contrast, or brushed or washed finishes, the twill direction may be easier to see.

Thickness, strength, water absorbency, and stretch are not determined uniformly by whether the twill is right-hand or left-hand. These properties are judged together with the type of fiber, thread thickness and twist, weave structure, density, and finishing.

Main Applications

The distinction between right-hand twill and left-hand twill is used for textiles with clear twill lines, such as twill, denim, chino cloth, and gabardine. They may be used for items that require moderate thickness and durability, such as jackets, pants, skirts, coats, workwear, and bags.

Applications and seasons are determined mainly by the material, fabric weight, density, and finish, not by the twill direction. Since there are textiles ranging from lightweight types that emphasize drape to substantial, firm textiles, it is important to check the appearance and thickness with an actual swatch during planning.

Selection and Handling Notes

When cutting, keep the top and bottom direction and front and back orientation consistent within the same part, and align the twill direction. If the direction is mixed among the left and right body panels, pockets, belts, facings, and similar parts, differences in reflected light may make the color and appearance look different. Caution is especially needed with dark colors, brushed items, and glossy textiles.

Shrinkage, distortion, and appearance changes after washing cannot be judged by twill weave or twill direction alone. Perform testing or wash tests according to the material composition and finish, and if necessary consider pre-shrinking or relaxed washing before cutting. In sewing, follow the grain line and clearly state the twill direction for each part in the specification sheet.

• Even for symmetrical parts, cut without reversing the top and bottom direction of the textile.
• Before cutting, check the twill direction, color difference, and front and back orientation for each roll.
• If washing or garment dyeing is planned, check the appearance in advance with a sewn sample.

Differences from Similar Terms

Twill weave refers to the overall weave structure in which diagonal twill lines appear. Right-hand twill and left-hand twill are classifications showing which direction the twill line runs within that twill weave, and are not names of the weave structure itself.

Twill is a general term for twill weave or twill fabric. Denim, chino cloth, and gabardine are fabric names that also include material, thread use, density, finishing, and similar factors, and they can be either right-hand twill or left-hand twill. Herringbone differs in that it is a structure or pattern in which the twill direction is reversed partway through to create a chevron appearance.

Frequently Asked Questions