Piping Finish

Definition and Overview

Piping finish is a finishing method that wraps the cut edge of the seam allowance after sewing with narrow tape and stitches it in place. It is used for garments without lining and products whose inside is visible when taken off, to neatly finish the seam allowance with a clean appearance.

Hong Kong finish generally refers to a piping finish in which each seam allowance is wrapped separately with bias tape. The term is used somewhat broadly, so in product specifications it is best to also state the tape width and whether the seam allowance is pressed to one side to avoid misunderstandings.

Parts Used and Role

It is mainly used on side seams, shoulder seams, armholes, and around facings in jackets, coats, vests, and skirts. In unlined garments, it covers the seam allowance on the inside, helps prevent fraying, and enhances the appearance of the inside.

Because it covers the edge of the seam allowance, the finish tends to look neater than a serged finish alone, but it also adds bulk to the seam allowance. In areas that are likely to touch the skin directly or areas with many layers, check the wearing comfort and thickness in advance.

• The inside of unlined jackets and coats
• Seam allowances of skirts and dresses without lining
• Seam allowances with curves, such as armholes and necklines

Materials and Types

The wrapping tape may be self-fabric cut on the bias, a separate bias tape, or a thin woven tape. Because the bias direction is diagonal, it conforms easily to curves even in woven fabrics with little stretch.

In addition to matching the main fabric color to blend in, decorative or patterned tape can be used to create an accent on the inside. The term piping can also refer to decorative trimming in which cord is wrapped in fabric and inserted into a seam, so when the purpose is to cover a seam allowance, it is important to specify the construction clearly.

Selection and Precautions

Select the tape according to the thickness, stiffness, slipperiness, and stretch of the main fabric. If a thin, stiff tape is used with a heavy fabric, the edge may not conform well; if a heavy tape is used with a light fabric, the seam allowance may stand out or create a ridge visible on the outside.

A slippery tape is less likely to catch when putting on or taking off the garment, but it may shift during sewing. For stretch fabrics and knits, check whether the tape restricts stretch. With sheer outer fabrics, also consider whether the tape color, thickness, and seam allowance overlap may show through from the outside.

• Choose bias tape that conforms easily for curved sections.
• Check the difference in washing shrinkage and colorfastness between the main fabric and the tape.
• For contrasting tape, confirm in advance the appearance of the stitching and the finish on both sides.

Sewing Precautions and Differences from Similar Terms

Curved sections require processing suited to the shape, such as clipping the seam allowance or easing the tape along while gently stretching it. If the tape is pulled too tightly, the seam allowance will pucker; if it is too loose, it may cause lifting or waviness. After sewing, press the seam allowance and tape with an iron to set them neatly.

Piping finish is a type of edge finishing and is different from a serged finish, which overcasts the edge with thread. Also, a welt is a specification in which a narrow fabric edge is visible at an opening such as a pocket opening, and its purpose differs from piping finish, which wraps the cut edge of the seam allowance.

Frequently Asked Questions