Easing

Definition and Overview

Easing is the process of slightly shrinking the longer fabric edge or easing it into the seam allowance in small amounts, then sewing it to the shorter edge. The key is to distribute the fullness evenly inside the seam without creating visible gathers on the surface.

It is used to convert a length difference set in advance on the pattern into three-dimensional shape during sewing. Rather than relying on fabric stretch, it mainly uses the movement between yarns in woven fabric and the ease of shaping through heat and steam.

Areas Used and Their Role

The typical areas are the sleeve head and armhole. Easing distributed at the sleeve head lets the upper sleeve follow the curve of the shoulder, creating moderate room for arm movement and a raised shape. It especially affects the finished look of jackets and coats.

It is also used at areas where a flat piece of fabric needs to follow the body’s curves, such as the neckline, the seam between the front and side panels, and the waist area of trousers. The required amount of easing and the distribution range are specified clearly in the pattern and specification sheet for each area.

• At the sleeve head, the easing is spread gradually over the sleeve head area rather than concentrated at a single point.
• For thick or stiff materials, the seam allowance treatment and whether interfacing is used also affect the finish.

Materials and Types

The ease of easing depends not only on the fabric name, but also on the weave structure, density, thickness, and finish. In general, wool and similar materials tend to be easier to shape with steam and an iron. On the other hand, tightly woven, stiff fabrics or materials with a slippery surface may be harder to ease properly.

Methods include using a row of coarse machine stitching as a guide and pulling the thread, using differences in feed to ease the fabric while sewing, and shaping the seam allowance with steam and an iron. These methods are combined according to the material and area.

Sewing Precautions

Before sewing, align the notches accurately and confirm the easing range and distribution. If the longer edge is pulled too strongly or forced excessively into the shorter edge, it can cause localized gathers, shifting of the seam, or puckering.

Baste or use auxiliary machine stitching to distribute the easing temporarily, then sew the final seam while checking the right side. After sewing, press the seam allowance into shape with an iron, but for materials sensitive to heat or steam, it is necessary to test on a scrap and check the conditions using a pressing cloth.

Differences from Similar Terms

Easing is a technique for absorbing differences in fabric amount without showing gathers on the surface. Gathers differ in that the thread is pulled to create gathers intentionally on the surface for decoration and added fullness. Shirring often refers to a similar shrinking-and-drawing effect, but its purpose differs from easing.

Sleeve head wadding is an auxiliary material placed inside the sleeve head to support or soften the shape. Easing is the process of sewing the sleeve head fabric together in three dimensions, while sleeve head wadding is a material that helps the finished shape. The two may be used together at the sleeve head.

Frequently Asked Questions