Knit Lining

Definition and Overview

Knit lining is a general term for linings made from knitted fabric rather than woven fabric. Many have stretch due to the structure of their stitches, and because they follow the movement of the outer fabric easily, they are used for stretch garments and products that move a lot.

Compared with ordinary woven linings, they are softer and easier to adjust for skin feel, but depending on the structure and finish, they may have less slipperiness. The functions required of a lining vary depending on the knit structure, fiber type, industry weight, and processing.

Where It Is Used and Its Role

It is used for the body, sleeves, hood, pocket bags, and more. It is selected for outerwear, jackets, sportswear, and dresses made from cut-and-sew material to soften contact with the skin and reduce sheerness in the outer fabric.

In products where the outer fabric stretches, a lining that also stretches appropriately helps reduce pulling when putting on and taking off the garment or when moving the arms and back. Types with added moisture absorption and quick drying, antistatic properties, or warmth retention are used according to the wearing environment and applications.

• Body lining: adjusts skin feel, sheerness, and the stability of the outer fabric.
• Sleeve lining: considers how well it follows arm movement and the wearing feel.
• Mesh lining: used in areas where breathability is needed and clamminess should be reduced.

Materials and Types

Typical structures include warp-knit tricot and raschel, as well as circular knit jersey and circular interlock knitting. Warp knits are relatively less likely to lose their shape, while circular knits tend to provide softer stretch, but it is important to check the actual performance of the structure and finish.

Fibers used include polyester, nylon, rayon, Cupro, and polyurethane may be blended in to increase stretch. Specifications such as mesh, fuzzy finish, moisture absorption and quick drying, and antistatic are selected according to the desired skin feel and functions.

Selection and Points of Caution

Compatibility with the outer fabric is checked by matching the stretch direction and amount of stretch. If only the outer fabric stretches greatly, the lining can hinder movement; conversely, if only the lining stretches easily, it may affect seam waviness and how the hem falls. Check not only the lengthwise and widthwise stretch, but also the diagonal stretch.

For garments where easy putting on and taking off is needed, look at friction with the outer fabric and with clothing worn underneath. Some knit linings have less slipperiness than woven linings, so especially on the inside of sleeves and pants, confirmation through fitting is necessary. For light-colored or thin outer fabrics, also check the lining color, sheen, and how the knit structure appears through the outer fabric.

Also check dimensional change due to washing or heat, pilling, and color fastness. If the outer fabric and lining shrink differently, pulling in the outer fabric or excess lining may occur after washing. When garment washing is planned, testing before and after sewing is important.

Sewing Considerations

Stretch knit linings are prone to seam waviness if pulled during sewing. Set the needle, thread, feed conditions, and seam specification according to the material, and check for shifting or puckering while it is layered with the outer fabric.

When finishing seam allowances, consider curling at the knit edge, fraying, and bulk. For areas where stretch tape or interfacing is used, decide the specifications based on the amount of movement in each section and the pattern design so that the lining’s stretch is not blocked more than necessary.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are knit lining and stretch lining the same?

No, they are not the same. Knit lining refers to lining made from knitted fabric, while stretch lining refers to lining with elasticity. Many knit linings stretch, but some have limited stretch depending on the knit structure and finish. There are also stretch linings made from woven fabric.

Should knit lining always be used for stretch outer fabrics?

Not necessarily. The decision depends on the amount of stretch in the outer fabric, the garment ease, the area where lining is attached, and the slipperiness and breathability required. Because it is important that the lining does not hinder the outer fabric’s stretch, check the stretch and wearing feel with the fabrics layered together in actual use.

What should be noted when using knit lining with a thin outer fabric?

Check whether the knit structure, color, and sheen show through the outer fabric. Even if the lining color is close to the outer fabric, it may look darker when layered. With a sample of the outer fabric and lining layered together, check the sheerness under lighting, how seam allowances appear, and how prone it is to static electricity.