False-twist Textured Yarn

Definition and Overview

False-twist textured yarn is a textured yarn that has been given crimp through a false-twist texturing process, in which filament yarn is temporarily twisted, heated, and then untwisted. Crimp refers to the fine curls or waviness in the fibers.

It is often used with synthetic fibers that retain their shape well under heat, and polyester and nylon are typical examples. DTY is generally used as an abbreviation for yarn that has undergone drawing and false-twist texturing.

Hand and Function

Compared with the smooth, lustrous impression of untreated filament yarn, false-twist textured yarn tends to trap air inside the yarn, giving it a fuller, softer hand. In woven and knitted fabrics, it is characterized by a matte appearance and the ability to create a moderate thickness more easily.

Because the crimp stretches and contracts, elasticity and recovery may be obtained depending on the material, knitting or weaving structure, and processing conditions. However, its stretch differs from that of stretch materials using polyurethane, and it does not always have strong elasticity.

Main Applications

False-twist textured yarn is used in knitted fabrics for cut-and-sew items, innerwear, sportswear, and legwear, and in woven fabrics for blouses, shirts, pants, skirts, and linings. Depending on the yarn thickness and degree of crimp, it is designed for a wide range from lightweight to medium-weight fabrics.

It is used not only for autumn and winter items that call for warmth and fullness, but also for spring and summer items that take advantage of its light weight and moisture-wicking, quick-drying finishes. Seasonality is judged not only by whether false-twist texturing is used, but also by the material, fabric weight, structure, and finishing process.

How to Choose and Handling Notes

When selecting a textile, check the raw fiber, yarn thickness, strength of crimp, knitting or weaving structure, and fabric weight, and confirm with a swatch whether it suits the required thickness, stretch, and surface texture. Even with the same DTY designation, the hand and stretch vary depending on the specifications.

Fabrics with crimp may change in dimensions or surface texture due to washing, heat, or moisture. It is important to conduct a wash test before mass production and confirm the shrinkage rate. In sewing, align the grain and cut, then adjust feed amount, thread tension, and needles to match the stretch of the fabric.

• For ironing, check the washing instructions for the appropriate temperature and whether a pressing cloth is needed.
• Strong heat or excessive pressure may cause shine or changes in hand.
• To prevent seam stretching and puckering, check the sewing conditions with a test stitch.

Differences from Similar Terms

False-twist textured yarn refers to the yarn processing method and the processed yarn itself, while polyester and nylon are names of raw fibers. Jersey and tricot are knitting structures and types, and may be made using false-twist textured yarn.

High-twist yarn is yarn given a large amount of twist to create a crisp feel and a cool touch, and its purpose and post-processing structure differ from those of false-twist textured yarn. Filament yarn and spun yarn are classifications based on yarn construction, and false-twist textured yarn is mainly processed filament yarn.

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