Handloom
Handloom is a term for a loom that weaves by crossing warp and weft through operation by hand and foot, or for fabric woven on such a loom.
Contents6 sections
Definition and Overview
Handloom is a loom in which the weaver advances the weaving process by hand and foot, rather than a loom driven mainly by power. In fabric descriptions, it may also refer to fabric woven on such a loom. It is a term related to the weaving method, not a fiber name or weave structure name.
Handwoven generally refers to the act of weaving with a handloom or to the fabric itself. However, the expression “handwoven texture” may also refer to the look obtained with a low-speed loom, so the actual weaving method should be confirmed in the fabric specifications or with the supplier.
Features
Because the weaver operates while checking the condition of the yarn, it tends to make use of the natural character of the material, such as uneven yarn, slubs, and neps, and tends to create a natural look that is not overly uniform. Touch and appearance vary greatly depending on the type of yarn, density, weave structure, and finishing.
In general, production volume is more limited than mass-produced fabric made on power looms. Since differences in width, length, color, and texture may occur from piece to piece or by lot, it is important to decide in advance whether to accept such irregularity as part of the design or set it as a product standard.
- Easy to make use of a rustic, soft appearance
- Yarn thickness and material feel are more likely to show in the appearance
- Uniformity, productivity, and supply stability need to be confirmed for each fabric
Main Applications
Applications vary depending on the fiber used, such as cotton, linen, wool, and silk. It is used for shirts, blouses, dresses, skirts, pants, and jackets, as well as scarves, bags, and interior fabrics.
Lightweight fabrics are used for spring and summer apparel and fashion accessories, while heavier fabrics and those with a brushed finish are used for autumn and winter outerwear, jackets, and miscellaneous goods. When deciding on applications, confirm not only that it is handloom fabric, but also the fabric weight, density, sheerness, and durability.
Selection and Handling Notes
During planning, check the color tone, width, weaving irregularities, yarn slubs, and selvedge condition of each roll using the actual fabric, and clearly state the acceptable range in the specification sheet. Patterned fabric may have differences in pattern placement or pattern size, so before cutting, consider the required yardage and whether pattern matching is possible.
Shrinkage and skewing caused by washing cannot be determined only by whether the fabric is handwoven; they depend on the fiber, twist, density, and finishing. Before mass production, perform prewashing or a washing test, confirm the shrinkage rate, and reflect it in the pattern. Always follow the care instructions for each fabric and the test results.
In sewing, align the grain before cutting and choose needles and thread that suit the thickness and weave density. For coarse fabrics or fabrics in which the yarn tends to float, pay attention to preventing fraying at the seam allowance edge, seam puckering, and press marks from ironing, and determine the conditions through a trial stitch.
Differences from Similar Terms
A shuttle loom refers to a loom that inserts the weft using a shuttle, and the term is used for both hand-operated handlooms and power-driven looms. On the other hand, a shuttleless loom is a general term for looms that do not use a shuttle. These are classifications related to the loom mechanism, while handloom mainly indicates the way it is operated and powered.
Plain weave and twill are weave structures that indicate how the warp and weft cross. Since a handloom can weave various structures such as plain weave and twill, the term handloom alone does not identify the weave structure or material.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do handloom and handwoven mean the same thing?
Handloom mainly refers to a loom operated by a person, while handwoven refers to the act of weaving on that loom or the fabric itself. In practice, they may be used with similar meanings, but as a fabric name, the term may also include machine-woven fabrics with a handwoven look. If the weaving method is important, confirm it with the supplier.
Are handwoven-look fabrics woven on a handloom?
They are not necessarily woven on a handloom. Some fabrics achieve a handwoven-like texture through slow automatic looms, yarn usage, weave structure, or washing processes. Distinguish between handwoven as an actual label and handwoven-like as a description of texture.
Can handloom fabric be washed at home?
Whether home washing is possible depends not on the handloom method, but on the material, dyeing, finishing, and sewing specifications. In particular, fabrics containing natural fibers may shrink, fade, or lose shape. Judge based on the care label for each fabric and the results of prior testing.
